Foundations of Essential Oil Therapy

Lesson 4b: Salt and Sugar Scrubs

Watch: About Body Scrubs – Part I

Watch: About Body Scrubs Part II

Introduction to Exfoliants: Salt and Sugar Scrubs

Salt and sugar scrub are well-known, highly effective body treatments for stimulating circulation and removing dirt and dead surface layer skin cells, while leaving the skin soft and glowing. Body exfoliation products can be called salt or sugar scrubs or body polishes. Salt and sugar scrubs can also be formulated for isolated regions of the body, such as for the hands, feet or elbows.

Key therapeutic benefits of exfoliating include:

Stimulates lymph and blood circulation
Brightens the skin
Supports and enhances cellular rejuvenation
May support immunity
Helps unblock pores
Improves nutrient exchange
Protects the skin from transepidermal water loss
Prepares skin for next step in body care program, such as applying a body oil or lotion

Salt or Sugar?

The core difference between salt and sugar is that sugar adds an emollient quality to the body scrub. Sugar scrubs can be beneficial when the individual has dry skin or during the Autumn months when there is a natural tendency for dry skin due to reduced humidity and the use of heat to warm the home.

I personally tend to use salt scrubs more often than sugar scrubs. But truly, the choice is entirely up to you!

NOTE: Salt and sugar scrubs are designed to be used on the body rather than the face as they can be a bit too harsh for facial skin.

When to use body scrubs

Although body scrubs may be used throughout the year, they are particularly indicated for the spring and winter months when the skin and body can become sluggish or in need of detoxification or cleansing. Sugar scrubs, as mentioned above, have a more emollient-like quality and are recommended during the summer and autumn months when there is a proclivity for dryness of the skin.

How often should someone use a body exfoliant?

Exfoliation is a valuable step in any comprehensive skincare routine. It helps remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and promote a smoother, more radiant complexion. The frequency of exfoliation depends on individual skin type and sensitivity.

For the body, exfoliation can be performed up to 3-5 times a week. Those with sensitive skin may want to start with less frequent exfoliation and gradually increase the frequency as their skin becomes more accustomed to the process. It’s essential to listen to your skin and adjust the exfoliation routine accordingly.

Exfoliation can be done as often as needed or desired on hands and feet. These areas tend to have thicker, more resilient skin and are often subject to more wear and tear than other parts of the body. Regular exfoliation can help keep the skin on the hands and feet smooth, soft, and well-maintained.

Regardless of the area being exfoliated, it’s important to use gentle, circular motions and to avoid over-exfoliating, as this can lead to irritation and damage to the skin. Following up with a moisturizer after exfoliation can help keep the skin hydrated and protected.

Are there contraindications to exfoliating?

Yes! There are a number of contraindications to exfoliation, including:

Do not exfoliate on open wounds, thin or broken skin, or when a chronic inflammatory skin condition is
Avoid exfoliants on sunburned skin or immediately after waxing or Wait 24 to 48 hours after shaving or waxing to use body scrub.
Avoid exfoliants on varicose veins and moles., as the use of exfoliants in these circumstances may increase irritation or complicate the condition

Depending on skin type and sensitivity, the overuse of exfoliation can leave the skin sensitive and inflamed. Overuse, particularly of harsh exfoliants, can cause the skin to thicken and grow leathery. It is important to emphasize that exfoliating is a gentle process and it is not necessary to scrub excessively or harshly.

How to Use a Body Scrub:

Wet the skin in the shower (or in foot/hand bath if using scrub for the feet or hands)
Apply scrub to desired area (e.g. the legs) and gently massage the scrub onto the skin. Avoid pressing down too hard, just a light pressure a you massage the scrub onto area selected.
Continue to apply scrub to various areas of the body (e.g., the arms, back, shoulders, neck, and bottom)
Rinse scrub off with warm water.
After leaving the shower and while skin is still slightly damp: apply a body oil or lotion to nourish, protect, and support hydration of the newly exfoliated skin.

Incorporating dried herbs, ground nuts, seaweeds, and other natural ingredients can produce variations on the traditional salt glow.

Shelf life:

A body scrub has a shelf life of approximately 6-12 months or more. I recommend using it within 3 months to maintain its vitality.

Packaging Body Scrubs

I recommend you package body scrubs in 8- and 16- ounce jars.

Essential Oil Dilution Rate for Salt Scrubs

If you are using a 16-ounce jar
1 1/2 cups of salt (approx. 425-440 gm) or sugar (350-360gm)
1/2 cup carrier oil (approx. 104-109 gm: approx. 120ml)
3% dilution of essential oils: 72-108 drops per jar depending on choice of essential oils and dropper size (average 80-90 drops per 16-ounce jar)

If you are using an 8-ounce jar
1 cup of salt (approx. 250-273 gm) or sugar (203-205gm)
1/4 cup + 1 Tbsp. carrier oil (approx. 62 gm or 80ml)
3% dilution of essential oils: 48-72 drops per jar depending on the choice of essential oils and dropper size (average 55 drops per 8-ounce jar)

PLEASE NOTE: Weights and measurements will vary slightly. This is okay!

How to formulate a body scrub

This scrub is designed to fill a 16-ounce jar.

My intention/goal: To create a stimulating, detoxing, and invigorating salt scrub
My focus: Physical – to support healthy skin and circulation
My approach: System affinities/Therapeutic Actions

1. Select 3-5 essential oils to work with based upon client consultation and goals of treatment or product. Core/Enhance/Harmonize

2. Select carrier oil or oils (includes herbal oils)

3. Measure (and weigh, if desired) sea salt
4. Measure (and weight, if desired) carrier oil
5. Using a small (10ml) beaker, place drops of each essential oil into the beaker or into the same beaker as the carrier oil. You can also weigh each individual essential oil by pressing the tare after drops of one of the essential oils are placed into the beaker.
6. In an appropriate size bowl, place sea salts and then add carrier oil + essential oil synergy.
7. Stir ingredients until well combined.
8. Once combined, scoop the scrub into the jar.
9. Label the bottle with the name and list all ingredients.
10. The salt scrub is now ready for use.

Shelf life:

A salt scrub will be good for approximately 6-12 months or more. I recommend trying to use it within 3 months to receive its vitality.

Sample Recipe

Rosemary Juniper Salt Scrub!

Lesson 1c: Roll Ons

Watch How to make an aromatherapy roll-on

Roll-On (aka Roller Balls)

It’s amazing how popular the aromatic roll-on has become! The roller ball is basically a 0.35 oz (10 ml) bottle with a cap or lid that contains a ball.

Each roller bottle holds approximately 9.9 ml (just under 10mls or 7.8-8gm) to accommodate the essential oils) of base oil + essential oils.

Roll on blends can be made:

to anoint chakra or energy points
to apply a localized treatment
for bug bites
for inflamed area of skin
to relieve pain of arthritis
for muscular tension
spot acne treatments
to create a botanical perfume.
to relieve headaches and tension
And for any other reason where a roll on may be suitable.

Roll-on formulations consist of a carefully crafted blend of carrier oils, herbal oils, and essential oils. The selection of these components is largely determined by the intended purpose of the roll-on. When formulating a roll-on primarily for emotional well-being, focusing on the aroma, it is advisable to use what are referred to as “core carrier oils.” These include 100% jojoba, sesame, apricot kernel, or apricot kernel oil, which serve as an ideal base for the essential oils.

Conversely, when creating a roll-on to target physical conditions, such as pain or itchy bug bites, a slightly different approach is recommended. In these cases, it is beneficial to use a combination of 50-75% core carrier oils and incorporate appropriate herbal oils, like calendula, and/or “enhancer carrier oils.” Enhancer carrier oils encompass options such as rosehip seed oil, pomegranate, sea buckthorn pulp, or seed oil, which can provide additional therapeutic benefits.

It is important to note that all carrier oils contribute to the overall nourishment of the skin. However, some oils may also impart unique colors or aromas to the final product. For instance, unrefined avocado oil can lend a rich green hue to the roll-on, while raspberry seed oil may impart a delightful raspberry-like scent. The possibilities for customization are virtually endless.

When it comes to the essential oil content, the typical range for a roll-on bottle is between 5 and 12 drops. However, this can vary depending on the specific essential oils being used and the desired outcome of the formulation. For example, more potent or expensive essential oils, such as sandalwood or rose, may require fewer drops, while essential oils derived from conifers or citrus fruits can be used more liberally.

Dilution chart for Roll-Ons

Shelf life:

A roll-on will last approximately 6-12 months or more. However, to receive its full vitality, I recommend using it within 3-6 months.

How to Formulate a Roll-on

This is for one roll-on bottle.

My intention/goal: To create a forest-bathing roll-on to reduce stress and build resiliency
My focus: Emotions/Psyche
My approach: Aromatic palette (conifers)
Size of product: One 10ml roll-on
Dilution rate: 3%

1. Select 3-5 essential oils to work with based upon client consultation and goals of treatment or product. Core/Enhance/Harmonize

2. Select carrier oil or oils (includes herbal oils)

3. Add drops of each essential oil directly into the roll-on bottle. Weigh drops and tare scale after each essential oil. Swivel the bottle around gently before adding carrier oil/s.
4. Measure (and weigh, if desired) carrier oil using a glass graduated cylinder or beaker.
5. Pour the carrier oil into the roll-on bottle.
6. Place the ball and cap into the roll-on bottle and place the lid on.
7. Shake roll-on gently to combine carrier oil/s with the essential oils.
8. Label the bottle.
9. The roll-on is now ready for use.

Method #2:

Select 3-5 essential oils to work with based upon client consultation and goals of treatment or product.
Select carrier oil or oils (includes herbal oils)
Add drops of each essential oil into a small glass beaker. (and weigh, if desired)
Measure carrier oil using a small glass beaker.
Add carrier oil into the beaker, which has the essential oils in it.
Stir with glass or metal stir rod.
Pour the blend into the roller bottle.
Place the ball and cap onto the inside lid.
Label the bottle.
It’s now ready to be used.

TO MAKE A BATCH OF 10 AROMATHERAPY ROLLER BALLS

When making a batch of 10 roll-ons, it helps to have a medium-sized beaker, e.g., 100 ml.

Measure out 90-110 drops of the essential oils selected for formulation and place them in a 100ml glass beaker. (This is a 2.5% dilution.) Swivel the glass beaker to ‘mix’ the essential oils before adding them to the carrier oil.
Measure (or weigh) carrier oils in a 100ml glass beaker.
Combine carrier oils into the beaker with the essential oils.
Stir with a metal or glass stir rod until well combined.
Pour blend into each bottle, ﬁlling just to where the lip begins to turn up. (each bottle will weigh approx. 8-8.2 gm)
Pop ball/lids into bottles, then cap.
Place a label on each bottle.
Your roll-ons are now ready for sale or to give to family and friends.

Sample Roll On Formulations

Compassion and Strength

10 ml Jojoba oil
2 drops Rose (Rosa damascena)
3 drops Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin)
5 drops Mandarin (Citrus reticulata)

Calm and Nourish

10 ml Jojoba oil
2 drops Ylang Ylang (Cananga odorata)
1–2 drops Neroli (Citrus aurantium var. amara)
3 drops Cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum)
4 drops Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis)

Itch Relief

6 ml Calendula herbal oil
4ml Jojoba or Sunflower oil
2 drops German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) or Cape chamomile (Eriocephalus punctulatus)
4 drops Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
3 drops Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum) (or Frankincense – Boswellia carteri)

Lesson 1b: Creams and Lotions

Watch Introduction to Creams and Lotions with Jade Shutes

Face Creams (and lotions!)

Working with a client suffering from dry skin? Are you experiencing dry skin? Dry skin is quite common. Skin can become drier during the autumn and winter months due to a reduction in humidity as well as in windy, cold climates. Skin also becomes drier as we age due to changes in the skin and hormones. Other contributing factors to dry skin include a lack of water and healthy fats in the diet. Make sure to cultivate a healthy diet that includes healthy fats and ensure you have a good water intake throughout the day.

When it comes to the benefits of aromatherapy for dry skin, creams, and lotions are the best methods of application. Creams and lotions offer both oil and water in an emulsion to soften and soothe skin while supporting its ability to retain moisture.

What’s the difference between a cream and a lotion?

Creams tend to be thicker than lotions and are commonly used on the face or on localized dry spots on the body, such as the feet, knees, or elbows. Lotions, on the other hand, tend to be thinner in texture and can be applied to the whole body, although they are rarely used for the facial skin.

The easiest way to incorporate essential oils into creams and lotions is to start with a cream or lotion on the market that you like, and that works for your skin.

The choice between a facial oil or cream would depend on the condition of the client’s skin and the goals of the treatment. If a client had dry (lacking oil) and dehydrated (lacking water) skin, then a cream would be appropriate. If, on the other hand, a client had dry skin (lacking oil) but was well hydrated, then a facial oil would be appropriate if desired. The facial skin tends to be more sensitive than the rest of the body, so essential oils may need more consideration and observation regarding client sensitivities.

In general, aromatherapy creams have the following benefits:

Enhance wound healing
Influence and slow aging of skin
Scar reduction and improved appearance
Support and enhance immune cells of the skin
Balance sebum production
Aid the process of detoxification in the skin
Increase local circulation
Improve tone of skin
Encourage hydration of the skin, when used in conjunction with hydrosol/water or cream
Soften and soothe the skin
Address emotional issues

Use a premade unscented face cream or lotion base
First, you will want to find an unscented face cream or body lotion, depending on what you are making. There are a growing number of wholesale companies that offer unscented bases for aromatherapists. Or use your favorite unscented cream or lotion from a local health food store or coop.

Facial cream/lotion dilution rates:

For adults:

Sensitive skin: 0.5 to 1 percent dilution = 4 – 9 drops per ounce
Normal, healthy skin: 1 to 2 percent dilution = 9 – 23 drops per ounce
Cream for face: 4–6 drops per ounce
Lotion: 7–14 drops per ounce

How to prepare a facial cream or body lotion

For creams, use a 1 or 2-ounce glass or PET jar.
Some creams available on the market allow you to add hydrosols and herbal oils. Be sure to check with the company about how much you can add to keep the preservative system intact.

Supplies to make cream or lotion

Unscented cream or lotion
For creams: 1 or 2-ounce glass or PET plastic jar
For lotions: 4 or 8-ounce glass or PET plastic bottle with lotion pump or flip top.
Essential oil(s)
Glass Bowl
Stainless steel spoon
Silicone spatula

How to formulate your cream or lotion:

Decide on the quantity or size you will be making.
Select 3–5 essential oils for the formulation.
Measure and weigh cream or lotion and place in a glass bowl.
Measure drops and weigh each essential oil using a small beaker.
Use a stainless-steel spoon or stirring rod to stir the essential oil(s) into the cream or lotion until well combined.
Scoop the cream or pour the lotion into a clean container.
Name the product, create a label, and place a label on the jar. Be sure to list all the ingredients.

How to formulate a facial cream

This is for a 2 oz. jar of cream.

My intention/goal: To formulate a facial cream to reduce inflammation, support cellular regeneration, and reduce stress
My focus: Holistic (physical, emotional)
My approach: System affinities and Therapeutic actions
Size of product: 2 oz (by weight)
Dilution rate: 1%

1. Select 3-5 essential oils to work with based on the client consultation and goals of treatment or product. Core/Enhance/Harmonize

2. Place drops of each essential oil into a small glass beaker.
3. Measure or weigh out the cream or lotion base in a glass bowl.
4. Combine essential oils into cream or lotion, stirring with a glass or stainless-steel stirring rod or spoon.
5. Using a silicone spatula, scoop cream into a clean, sterilized glass or PET plastic jar.
6. Label the jar with the name and list all ingredients.
7. The cream or lotion is now ready for use.

Shelf life:

Most unscented creams and lotions commonly available in health food stores will have some type of preservative system. We recommend using cream or lotion within 6–12 months to enjoy its vitality even if it is preserved. If using an unpreserved cream or lotion, the shelf life tends to be 1–3 months, depending on how it is stored and used (no wet or dirty fingers dipping into the jar, please!).

Sprout: Insight into Dermal Applications

Everything that comes into contact with your skin can impact not only your skin health but also your entire physical well-being. You’ve already learned about the skin and how essential oils and botanical ingredients can help care for it.

Now, let’s explore products that are applied to the skin not just for skin care purposes but also to address other bodily issues or imbalances.

Cardiovascular (Circulatory) System

When it comes to the cardiovascular system, exercise, and healthy eating are the first things to consider if a health imbalance is occurring. However, essential oils (in an appropriate carrier or base) applied to the skin can support and enhance healthy circulation, reduce blood pressure when caused by stress, and reduce the appearance of varicose veins.

Methods of applications for the circulatory system include:

Gels: Great for varicose veins
Salt scrubs: The stimulating action of salt scrubs supports healthy circulation
Foot or Full body baths: May be beneficial in relieving stress and hence reducing blood pressure (when not caused by cardiovascular disease)

Digestive System

An abdominal massage oil can be highly beneficial when addressing various digestive issues, such as constipation, excessive gas, stomach cramps, or stress-related digestive conditions. By combining a carrier oil with essential oils that have an affinity for the digestive system, an abdominal massage can help alleviate a range of symptoms.

For instance, abdominal massage oil can relieve general constipation caused by factors such as travel, changes in diet, or a poor diet. The massage, along with the carefully selected essential oils, can help stimulate bowel movements and promote regularity.

Additionally, an abdominal massage oil can be effective in relieving painful gas and bloating. The gentle massage action, combined with the therapeutic properties of the essential oils, can help to soothe the digestive tract and encourage the release of trapped gas.

Furthermore, stress-related digestive upsets can be notably reduced and relieved through the use of an abdominal massage oil. The calming effects of the massage and the stress-reducing properties of certain essential oils can help to relax both the mind and the digestive system, promoting a sense of overall well-being.

By incorporating an abdominal massage oil into your treatment plan, you can effectively address a variety of digestive concerns, providing relief and comfort to your clients. Addressing dietary changes and lifestyle factors is a priority for most digestive conditions.

Musculoskeletal System

Body oils, gels, salves, and even body butters, creams, and lotions can all be used to treat muscular or joint aches and pains or other imbalances associated with the musculoskeletal system.

Essential oils, carrier oils, or herbal oils can be selected to:

relieve joint pain
reduce muscular aches and pains
relieve tension, relax muscles
reduce muscle spasms
speed recovery from sprains, strains, and repetitive movement injuries

Respiratory System

The most common aromatherapy product applied to the skin for the respiratory system is a salve, although a cream or chest oil may also be used.

A respiratory salve is applied to the chest, neck, back, and under the nose (for people more than 7 years old only). The salve is beneficial for relieving congestion while supporting the entire respiratory system in recovering from common respiratory ailments such as the cold or flu.

Essential oils in the salve may be used to:

relieve congestion by supporting the elimination of excess mucus
prevent or minimize hay fever
relieve spasmodic coughing
support the respiratory system and body in overcoming or recovering from respiratory infection, cold, flu, and other common respiratory ailments
open up and expand breathing

Reproductive System

Applying essential oils in a suitable carrier oil, cream, or lotion can be incredibly beneficial for relieving painful menstrual cramps and other imbalances associated with menstruation, peri-menopause, and menopause. Essential oils applied to the skin can alleviate pain and cramps associated with menstruation and support emotional wellness.

Isn’t the skin amazing?

By acquainting ourselves with how this multi-functional, amazingly dynamic, and sophisticated organ, the skin, is structured and how it functions, we will not only feel more confident and at ease when choosing specific essential oils and other botanical ingredients (e.g., carrier oils) to apply topically, but we will also be able to understand how these botanical substances interact with our skin, are partially absorbed, and ultimately affect the ever-changing landscape of our skin’s and body’s health.

Overview of Methods of Application

Methods of Application

There are two core categories for methods of application of essential oils

The Cutaneous Route (dermal application)
Inhalation and Diffusion

The two charts below outline the various methods of application based upon the two routes of administration. Each chart also provides general indications (not exhaustive) for utilizing that specific method of application.

Methods of Application: Cutaneous Route

Methods of Application: Cutaneous Route
Method	General Indications
Body Oils / Massage Oils Abhyanga	● Stress and anxiety ● Headaches/migraines ● Insomnia ● Chronic or acute pain relief ● Arthritis or Rheumatism (subacute phase) ● Chronic muscular and joint aches and pains ● Pregnancy, childbirth, and postpartum massage ● Reduce inflammation ● Enhance immunity ● Relax and soothe muscles and joints ● Reduce and relieve muscle spasms ● Relieve nerve pain ● Provide a cooling or warming effect ● Relax and soothe the nervous system ● Provide specific treatment of sprains, strains, and repetitive movement injuries ● And much more!
Facial cream, lotion, or oil	● Slow and influence aging of skin ● Scar reduction ● Support and enhance immune cells of the skin ● Increase local circulation ● Balance sebum production ● Improve tone of skin ● Hydrate the skin by preventing transepidermal water loss ● Soften and soothe the skin ● Enhance and support wound healing ● Address emotional issues
Gel	● Inflamed skin conditions ● Muscular aches and pains ● Beneficial for thin or fragile skin ● Varicose veins ● Hydrate the skin ● Migraines and headaches ● Burns ● Wound healing ● To cool inflamed conditions ● Nasal application
Full body baths	● Reduce stress and anxiety ● Alleviate muscular aches and pains ● Soothe mental or physical fatigue ● Stimulate circulation ● Enhance lymphatic circulation ● Reduce pain and stiffness ● Provide emotional comfort and self-nurture ● Improve tone and health of skin ● Aid detoxification
Foot and Hand baths	● Relieve stress and anxiety ● Open up nerve pathways in the feet via reflex points ● Support healthy circulation ● Increase energy ● Foot and hand aches and pains ● Arthritis and rheumatism (subacute phase) ● Nail and toe fungus ● Comfort therapy ● Use before reflexology or massage session
Sitz baths	● Hemorrhoids ● Atonic constipation ● Chronic pelvic inflammatory disorder ● Chronic prostatitis ● Rectal fissures
Compress	● Muscular aches and pains (hot or cold as indicated) ● Sprains and strains (hot or cold as indicated) ● Menstrual cramps (warm or hot) ● Respiratory congestion (warm or hot) ● Bruises (cold or warm) ● Skin inflammations (cool or cold) ● Varicose veins (cool or cold) ● Comfort care (warm)
Hot towels (for massage sessions)	● Relax tight or sore muscles ● Increase overall relaxation ● Improve local circulation ● Remove salt glows, scrubs, or masks ● Use as a welcoming or departing ritual, just prior to or immediately following a massage session
Salt scrub	● Enhance circulation ● Support detoxification ● Cell regeneration ● Energizing ● Relieves lethargy and heaviness ● Enhances lymphatic circulation ● Supports immunity
Facial steams	● Open and unblock pores ● Cleanse skin ● Antimicrobial activity
Lip balms	● Protect and nourish the lips ● Soothe dry lips ● Moisten lips
Body butters	● Skin issues: Dry, cracked skin conditions ● Nourishing to the skin
Salves	● Dermal inflammation ● Scar therapy: Reduce inflammation, aid healing, and improve scar appearance ● Musculoskeletal aches and pains or spasms ● Skin issues: Dry, cracked skin conditions ● Wound healing ● Respiratory congestion ● Stress, anxiety, and distress ● Natural perfume
Mouth wash	● Bad breath ● Periodontal disease ● Mouth ulcers or sores ● Infection of the mouth ● Thrush (candida in the mouth)
Undiluted application	● Acne (spot treatment only) ● Cold sore ● Burn ● Minor skin trauma or infection ● Migraines ● Spasmodic cough (apply to thorax and upper back) ● Muscle trauma or bruising ● Reflex or acupressure work ● Lymph congestion ● Antimicrobial activity (skin infection) ● Friction for an isolated region: the thorax, solar plexus or feet to affect a given system or overall immunity, etc.

Methods of Application: Inhalation & Diffusion

Methods of Application: Inhalation and Diffusion
Method	General Indications
Inhalations Methods of Inhalation: Direct from bottle Smelling salts Handkerchief/cotton ball Inhaler tube	● Respiratory issues ● Headaches and migraines ● Insomnia or other sleep disorders ● Shock ● Motion sickness/Nausea ● Anxiety, stress, and distress ● Lowered immunity ● Hormonal imbalance
Steam inhalations	● Congestion in the upper respiratory tract (cold and flu) ● Sinus infection or sinusitis ● Enhance respiratory function ● Moisten mucus membranes of the respiratory system
Aromatic Spritzers Room and air freshener	● Room and air freshener ● Body sprays over which an aromatic blend can be applied ● Reduce undesirable odors in the air ● Enhance or deepen breathing ● Soothing to a variety of emotional states ● Enhance spa treatments ● Reduce microbes in the air ● Spray mattresses to eliminate bed bugs
Ultrasonic diffuser, Nebulizing Diffuser, Candle diffuser	● Environmental ambiance ● Stress and anxiety reduction ● Insomnia or other sleep disorders ● Mood or motivation enhancement ● Increase alertness ● Purify and improve air quality ● Reduce airborne pathogens ● Lethargy or heaviness ● Support respiratory health

Sprout: Other Botanical Ingredients

HERBAL OILS

Herbal oils are infusions of medicinal herbs, most commonly in an olive oil or sunflower oil base. Typically, fresh (which has been dried to some extent to remove all moisture) or dried plant material is placed in a jar and then covered with the chosen vegetable oil. This mixture is then placed in the sun for two to four weeks or longer and then strained. These herbal infusions are then applied to the skin for a variety of therapeutic benefits, depending on the medicinal plant used. To learn more about infusing herbal oils, see the Sprout module in this module. We have a wonderful article by herbalist, Juliet Blankespoor.

The three most common herbal infusions utilized by aromatherapists include:

Calendula, St. John’s Wort and Arnica. In our Foundations program we will focus our studies on Calendula.

➜ Calendula (Calendula officinalis)

Calendula is an annual herbaceous plant, 1 to 2 feet high, with medium-green leaves and a much branching fragrant stem. The daisy-like flowers can be a delightful variety of light orange, yellow, and even golden to dark yellow flowers. It will flower all summer long and well into autumn. It is one of the easiest plants to grow and one that provides great joy.

Therapeutic benefits:

Calendula has been shown to be an effective antimicrobial (both antiviral and antibacterial), anti-inflammatory, antifungal, and wound healing herbal oil. Clinical trials have shown that calendula increases cell proliferation and encourages the granulation process of wound healing.

Calendula is indicated for:

Wound healing/Tissue repair
Inflamed skin conditions
Poorly healing wounds
Cracked skin conditions
Burns
Insect bites
Cracked nipples due to breastfeeding (nontoxic to baby)
Damaged tissue, ulcers

OTHER RAW MATERIAL

➜ Coconut oil

For hundreds of years, Philippine and Hawaiian women have been utilizing coconut oil to protect the skin and soften the hair. Coconut oil can be used to:

Soften rough, dry skin
Reduce chronic skin inflammation
Soothe skin rashes
Limit the damage to the skin from excessive sun exposure

We are including coconut oil here as it is used in handmade cream making and can also be used in butters and salves. Coconut is a solid oil that can occlude the skin when used alone; however, the use of coconut with other vegetable oils or in creams reduces the occluding action of coconut by itself.

➜ Cocoa butter

Cocoa butter is the ivory-colored natural fat of the cocoa bean extracted during the manufacturing process of producing chocolate and cocoa powder. Cocoa butter is solid at room temperature, but it has a low melting point (just below body temperature), and it does change from a solid to a liquid quickly. Besides smelling like chocolate, cocoa butter is a wonderful emollient butter for the skin. It is utilized in homemade creams and/or lotions.

➜ Beeswax and honey

Beeswax comes from the honeycomb of the honey bee. Beeswax will have a dark to light yellow color and will have a unique sweet honey-like aroma. It is used as an emulsifier and thickening agent in the creation of homemade creams, lotions, and salves. The best beeswax is local unprocessed beeswax, rich in color and vibrant with aroma.

Honey is used in spa and bodywork treatments for its ability as a natural humectant. Honey helps attract and retain moisture in the skin, making the skin soft and supple. Honey is being used for back and body care treatments, foot spa treatments, and for the face and neck. Research studies show that honey has a natural ability to protect the skin from free radicals, and it may be employed as an antioxidant agent in skin care products. Honey can be gently melted down and added into hydrosols and then added into creams or cleansers.

➜ Castile Soap

Organic Castile Liquid Soap Base is an all-natural, vegetable-based cleansing product. Castile soap is used in a variety of ways including to make skin cleanser for face and/or body, green cleaning products, or shampoo, bathroom scrub cleaner, or laundry detergent. We will be using castile soap in the Aromatherapy and the Skin module to make a cleanser.

Sprout: How to make an aromatic salve

What is a salve?

A salve is the combination of two basic ingredients: an oil and a wax. You can use any one vegetable oil, or combine 2 vegetables oils, or combine a vegetable oil with a nutrient-rich specialty oil (e.g. Rosehip seed oil), combine herbal oils or use one herbal oil. There are so many incredible combinations to create therapeutic salves with! The choice of oil is often based upon it’s purpose.

If you are making a skin care salve, you might choose to use a combination of calendula herbal oil, lavender herbal oil, and jojoba. If you are making a muscular aches and pain salve, you might consider using St. John’s wort herbal oil along with a bit of cottonwood herbal oil (if you can find it or make it yourself). And if you are making a general skin salve, you may consider calendula herbal oil, jojoba oil, and rose hip seed oil. So many possibilities!

For this formulation, we will be making our famous respiratory salve! My goal is to measure and weigh all ingredients for the respiratory salve and clarify dilutions for a salve.

The basic salve recipe consisted of: 1/4 cup sesame oil and 1/4 ounce of beeswax. I based my dilution of essential oils on the 1/4 cup of oil. A 1/4 cup of oil is equal to approx. 50ml. A 2.5% dilution in 50ml’s of oil is: 25 drops. I decided to do a 5% dilution or 50 drops.

INSIGHT:

Where did the standard dilution of 2.5% originate from?

Who knows? Perhaps Marguerite Maury? What I do know is that this is how we were trained in England during the late 80’s. The standard holistic dilution for an aromatherapy massage, which was the core of our training, was always 2.5%. For more clinical (meaning acute conditions), we would go up to 5 or even 20%. So there ya go……the origins of 2.5% remain a mystery but clearly was popularized via traditional British holistic aromatherapy education. What we do know is that this dilution can be effective for a wide range of conditions and individual constitutions.

In the United States, the standard dilution eventually became generally 3%.

Respiratory Salve Formulation

I measured and weighed all ingredients as follows:

Equipment you will need:

Double boiler (stainless steel)
Glass measuring cup
Small scale (I really like this one.)
Tins or glass jars (Consider these or these or these.)
Stainless steel fork or stirring rod.
Paper towels

How to make a general salve:

Clean space where you will be making salve.
Clean all utensils, double boiler, and bowls or measuring cups you will be using to make salve.
Fill bottom pot of double boiler with 1/4 of water. Place top pan on. Place double boiler onto medium heat and heat water to just below boiling.
Add in wax and non-heat-sensitive vegetable oils and herbal oils.
Stir ingredients together until well combined.
Once all beeswax (or other wax used) is melted, remove from heat and add in heat-sensitive vegetable oils (e.g. Rosehip seed oil, Borage, Evening primrose, Sunflower – linoleic acid rich, etc.).
If the salve has begun to harden, place on heat until all is melted and remove immediately. Be sure to dry bottom off before pouring!
Add in essential oils. (*Pre-make synergy in little glass measuring cup (5ml) or small bowl.
Using a fork or stirring rod, stir essential oils quickly into salve mixture.
Pour salve into jars or tins. *If, while pouring, the salve begins to harden, again, simply place the pot back onto the hot pot (can turn heat back on if needed).
Place cap on jars or tins.
Allow to salve to harden.
Check salves to make sure you like the texture and that the aroma is of desired strength based upon the goals of the salve.
Create labels for your salves and be sure to include the full list of ingredients. If using tins, you can put ingredients on the bottom and the name of the product on the top.
Once salves are labeled, they are ready to use!

To Clean Pot: Cleaning up after making a salve can be fun! Simply remove any excess salve from the pot using paper towels. Once this is done, simply clean with hot water and dish soap. Easy, quick, and simple!

Weights and Measurements

Back to the recipe I made….. Here is what my salve recipe looked like first:

1/4 cup sesame oil
1/4 ounce beeswax
50 drops essential oil: made up of 22 drops Rosmarinus officinalis ct. cineole (Rosemary), 16 drops Eucalyptus radiata, and 12 drops Mentha x piperita (Peppermint)

I measured and weighed all ingredients. From these weights, I then calculated the percentage for each ingredient, as shown in table.

As you can see, although I thought I was using a 5% dilution based upon the standard drops, it ended up only being 2.59% when it was calculated based upon weight. I also weighed and measured according to Tisserand and Young’s calculations (which are slightly higher than those taught in most aromatherapy schools or books – see above). And even at 62 drops instead of 50, I still only ended up with a 3.18% dilution of essential oils (based upon weight in gm).

This particular salve was formulated for the respiratory system during the cough, cold, and flu season so I want it to be strong. Upon reviewing its strength and thinking of it being used by someone in our family when they are sick, congested, and generally not feeling well sometime this winter, I decided to increase the dilution to make it a bit stronger. So given its goal of being a respiratory decongestant and expectorant, I felt that the original formulation was simply not strong enough. For sure, for me, right now, with clear sinuses, it would be perfect, maybe for some too strong, for others too weak. You will need to find the perfect balance for you and your family, or product line.

I corrected my dilution of essential oil and also decided to do a 50/50 sesame oil and sunflower oil combination for the oil part of the formulation.

My final Respiratory Salve Recipe now looks like this:

Amazing right? So the point here is not to drill in the need to weigh all your ingredients, you really don’t need to. While weighing ingredients may be more accurate, I would have been just as happy and confident in my formulation even if I had simply increased my drops of the three essential oil, even without ever having weighed them.

Enjoy making your own winter recipe salve. Just remember, it may smell a bit strong to you now (if your sinuses are clear) but when you have a cold or flu, the salve will have the strength it needs to provide relief.

When should you use a different dilution?

For general skin salves: I would recommend a 2 – 3%. There is no exact dilution because it will depend on which essential oils you are using but in general, this dilution would be good. Play around with it by making a small amount of salve (1/4 cup oil to 1/4 cup of beeswax makes 2 – 1 ounce tins and 1 – 1/2 ounce tin).
For respiratory system (congestion or to expand breathing): I would recommend a 3-4% dilution.
For pain salves: I would recommend a 3-5% dilution.

The dilution rate you choose will be based upon: the purpose of salve, specific essential oils to be used based upon that purpose/goal, and the constitution of the individual client.

Are there contraindications to salves?

Yes! There are situations when the application of herbal oils and salves is not recommended. Oils and salves help to hold in moisture and heat and are contraindicated in weepy skin conditions, infections, and fresh burns. Avoid the use of oils and salves on poison ivy rashes, weepy eczema, pimples, boils, fresh sunburn, and fungal and bacterial skin infections. Instead, use herbal compresses, soaks, baths or poultices, which are water-based applications. Also note that if oils are used as a sexual lubricant they can degrade and break most condoms.

(Juliet Blankespoor – Chestnut Herbs)

Ready to move to the next level of formulating? Consider our Botanical Body Care Products course.

Lesson 7: Safety and Essential Oils

Watch: Safety and Essential Oils: Part One with Jade Shutes

Watch: Safety and Essential Oils: Part Two with Jade Shutes

Watch: Safety and Essential Oils: Part Three with Jade Shutes

A Positive Approach to Essential Oil Safety

A therapeutic, knowledge, and experiential-based model for safety

With so much emphasis these days on safety and essential oils, it seems that the challenge isn’t really about ‘more safety’ but rather how we relate to it, how shall we interpret it so that it makes sense in our practice or general use of essential oils? And how shall we find balance within the extremes that appear on social media?

I like to begin with this idea: Essential oils are safe. It seems simple enough, right? And yet, there are three caveats:

Essential oils are safe when selected appropriately for the client or purpose of the product (includes target audience).
Essential oils are safe when the appropriate route of administration (oral, cutaneous, inhalation/diffusion), as well as the method of application (baths, herbal eo capsules, inhaler, etc.), is chosen correctly for the client or purpose of product.
Essential oils are safe when the dilution/dosage, length of time, and intensity of treatment is based upon the individual’s constitution, the essential oils being used, the nature of the condition, and the goal of the treatment.

Essential oils are powerful. They speak on multiple levels (physiologically and emotionally) to the human organism and are capable of widely diverse yet complementary therapeutic actions (antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory, etc.). We need to respect them, and yet we also need to appreciate that we have a long history, that we actually co-evolved with aromatic plants, and that they have been our allies as food, as shelter, in magic or ritual, as aromas and olfactory delight, and as medicine. We have a symbiotic relationship. But like all relationships, we must cultivate our inherent respect for their power, their potency and to use them accordingly.

With this in mind, we have adopted Peter Holmes’s approach to safety and essential oils. Like us, Peter is reframing aromatherapy with a model utilizing Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) as his language. We are using Western herbal energetics. The goal is the same. To offer another way of viewing and being in relationship with essential oils, how we use them, how we relate to them, and how we practice or frame imbalances in the body.

Moving along with safety, I very much like the way Peter Holmes has created three general therapeutic status categories. The general therapeutic status is a system that allows us to present essential oils in three unique categories based upon their individual ‘nature as a natural remedy in terms of its therapeutic applications at the most basic level.’

We will be using these categories to inspire a new way of viewing and relating to the safety of essential oils: one through the lens of the knowledgeable, responsible, reflective, and empowered aromatherapist and essential oil therapist.

We must understand both the essential oils benign qualities
as well as it potential for toxicity.

– Peter Holmes

Category 1: Mild essential oils

The essential oils included in this category do not present any significant risk of toxic accumulation in any part or system of the body, even when administered over a long period of time. Aside from the essential oils, which may be dermal irritants, sensitizers, or photosensitizers, this group of essential oils poses little concern even for the small amounts of various components that may be absorbed via the cutaneous route into general blood circulation. The vast majority of essential oils are included in this category.

Mild Essential oils: Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Petitgrain (Citrus x aurantium var. amara), Citrus essential oils (Citrus limon, C. paradisi, C. reticulata, Citrus bergamia, etc.), Coriander seed (Coriandrum sativum), Peppermint (Mentha x piperita), Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia), Ginger (Zingiber officinale), Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile), Frankincense spp., Sweet marjoram (Origanum majorana), Melissa officinalis, Litsea cubeba, Black spruce (Picea mariana), Cedarwood (Cedrus atlantica), Vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides), Sandalwood (Santalum sp.), German chamomile (Matricaria recutita), Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia), Clary sage (Salvia sclarea), Neroli (Citrus aurantium var. amara)

Category 2: Medium-strength essential oils

This group of essential oils presents some potential or risk of toxic accumulation of certain components, even when taken at the accepted therapeutic dose. The essential oils below should be used with caution. For internal routes, only short-term (less than 3 months) use is recommended. Caution is assumed for the cutaneous route; avoid daily long-term application.

*Specific components have been reviewed in the chemistry module.

The most common toxicity concern is neurotoxicity, regardless of the route of administration. Essential oils in this category are contraindicated during pregnancy or while breast-feeding.

Essential oils with potential to become neurotoxic

Sage (Salvia officinalis) – thujone (⍺- and β-) and camphor
Rosemary ct. verbenon (Rosmarinus officinalis) – verbenone
Hyssop ct. pinocamphone (Hyssopus officinalis) – pinocamphone
Spearmint (Mentha spicata) – carvone
Rosemary ct camphor (Rosmarinus officinalis) – camphor

Category 3: Strong essential oils

Essential oils in this group can cause acute poisoning regardless of the route of administration. The oral use of these essential oils should be avoided due to the potential for liver and nervous system toxicity.

Essential oils with potential for acute toxicity:

Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) – thujone
Cedar leaf (Thuja occidentalis) – thujone
Penny royal (Mentha pulegium) – pulegone

Along with these categories, it is important to also known
any safety concerns for each individual essential oil you are formulating
with as well as dermal safety covered below.

Let’s begin by putting safety into context.

Safety and Essential Oils

Safety involves a state of being free from risk or occurrence of injury, harm, or danger. Individuals who practice aromatherapy need to be aware of the safety issues involved with using essential oils in order to avoid potential adverse effects. Although many essential oils are potentially hazardous materials, if handled in the appropriate manner, the risks involved in their use can be very small. So, therefore, most commercially offered essential oils are safe to use for the purpose intended in a domestic/ professional or clinical environment. Schnaubelt states that the “informed use of essential oils may create occasional irritation or minor discomfort, but it is extremely unlikely to create serious injury or lasting physical problems,” particularly when basic guidelines are followed.

Factors which influence the safety of essential oils include:

1. Quality of essential oil being utilized:

As stated at the beginning of this unit, adulterated essential oils increase the likelihood of an adverse response, and hence, the need for pure, authentic, and genuine essential oils is of the utmost importance. This is not to say that authentic organic essential oils are incapable of triggering an adverse reaction but simply to highlight that adulterated essential oils are more likely to increase the likelihood of an adverse reaction/response.

2. Chemical composition of the oil:

Essential oils rich in aldehydes (e.g., citronellal, citral) and phenols (e.g., cinnamic aldehyde, eugenol) may cause skin reactions. Oils rich in these constituents should always be diluted prior to application to the skin. According to Schnaubelt, “diluting such oils so that the resulting solution becomes non-irritant may require diluting them to concentrations much lower than in normal circumstances. Another option is to blend such irritant oils asymmetrically with other essential oils, which mitigate their irritant effects.” For further details, see Module 4: An Introduction to the Chemistry of Essential Oils.

3. Method of application:

Essential oils may be applied on the skin (dermal application), inhaled, diffused, or taken internally. The potential safety concerns with dermal application will be discussed below. With regards to inhalation, inhalation, from a safety standpoint, presents a very low level of risk to most people. Even in a relatively small, closed room, and assuming 100% evaporation, the concentration of any essential oil (or component thereof) is unlikely to reach a dangerous level, either from aromatherapy massage or from essential oil vaporization.

The only likely risk would be from prolonged exposure (perhaps 1 hour or more) to relatively high levels of essential oil vapor, which could lead to headaches, vertigo, nausea, and lethargy. With regard to internal use, this method of application is not discussed in this foundation’s aromatherapy program, and further training is recommended prior to using essential oils internally. (See our Internal Use of Essential Oils program)

4. Dosage/dilution to be applied:

Most aromatherapy blends for massage and bodywork will be between 1 and 5 percent dilutions, which typically does not represent a safety concern. As one increases dilution, potential dermal (skin) reactions may take place depending on the individual essential oil, the area in which the oil is applied, and other factors related to the client’s own sensitivity levels. Any excessive usage of essential oils may cause irritation or other undesired effects due to their lipophilic nature.

5. Integrity of skin:

Damaged, diseased, or inflamed skin is often more permeable to essential oils and may be more sensitive to dermal reactions. It is potentially dangerous to put undiluted essential oils on damaged, diseased, or inflamed skin. Under these circumstances, the skin condition may be worsened, and larger amounts of oil than normal will be absorbed. Sensitization reactions are also more likely to occur.

6. Age of client:

Infants, toddlers, and young children are more sensitive to the potency of essential oils, and safe dilutions include .5 – 2.5%, depending on the condition. Also, some essential oils should simply be avoided for this population, e.g., Birch or Wintergreen, which are both rich in methyl salicylate. Elderly clients may also have more sensitive skin, so a reduced concentration /dosage may be indicated.

Possible Dermal Reactions

Of primary importance to aromatherapists is the safety of essential oil application to the skin. Skin reactions take three main forms: irritation, sensitization, and phototoxicity.

Dermal Irritant

A dermal irritant will produce an immediate effect of irritation on the skin. The reaction will be represented on the skin as blotchy or redness, which may be painful to some individuals. The severity of the reaction will depend on the concentration (dilution) applied.

General safety guidelines include avoiding the application of known dermal irritant essential oils on any inflammatory or allergic skin condition, avoiding undiluted application, avoiding application on open or damaged skin, and diluting known dermal irritants with appropriate vegetable oil or other carrier. If you suspect a client has sensitive skin, perform a skin patch test (see below). Table 2.1 lists some common essential oils considered to be dermal irritants.

Table 1.1 Dermal Irritants
Essential Oil	Latin Name
Bay	Pimento racemosa
Cinnamon bark or leaf	Cinnamomum zeylanicum (Bark is more irritating than leaf)
Clove bud	Syzygium aromaticum
Citronella	Cymbopogon nardus
Cumin	Cuminum cyminum
Lemongrass	Cymbopogon citratus
Lemon verbena	Lippia citriodora syn. Aloysia triphylla
Oregano	Origanum vulgare
Tagetes	Tagetes minuta
Thyme ct. thymol	Thymus vulgaris
All citrus oils have the potential to be skin irritants if used in high dosages.

Dermal Sensitization

The most common skin reaction to fragrance materials is sensitization, or ACD, which shows on light-colored skin as a bright red rash, and on darker-colored skin as a darker area. This is the visible sign of tissue damage caused by substances such as histamine released in the dermis due to an immune response. Two types of sensitization happen with essential oils: Immediate hypersensitivity and delayed hypersensitivity.

With immediate hypersensitivity, the reaction occurs rapidly after ‘fragrance’ has been applied to the skin. The reaction is mediated by IgE antibodies, which bind to the surface of mast cells. Within minutes of skin contact with an antigen, the mast cells release histamine and other factors, causing an inflammatory reaction.

With delayed hypersensitivity, little or no effect is evident on first exposure to a substance. On subsequent exposure to the same material, an inflammatory reaction occurs just as rapidly as for the immediate hypersensitivity.

The problem with dermal sensitization is that once it occurs with a specific essential oil, the individual is most likely going to be sensitive to it for many years and perhaps for the remainder of his/her life. The best way to prevent sensitization is to avoid known dermal sensitizers and avoid applying the same essential oils every day for lengthy periods of time (e.g., every day for over 3 months). Tisserand and Balacs note that “sensitization is, to an extent, unpredictable, as some individuals will be sensitive to a potential allergen and some will not.”

The following oils listed in Table 2.2 are considered to be dermal sensitizers.

Table 1.2 Dermal Sensitizers
Essential Oil	Latin Name
Casia	Cinnamomum cassia
Cinnamon bark	Cinnamomum zeylanicum
Clove leaf (moderate)	Eugenia caryophyllata
Peru balsam	Myroxylon pereirae
Verbena absolute (moderate)	Lippia citriodora
Absolutes of: oakmoss, treemoss, lavender, and lavandin
Turpentine oil	Pinus spp.
Backhousia	Backhousia citriodora
Oxidized oils from Pinaceae family (e.g., Pinus and Cupressus species) and Rutaceae family (e.g., citrus oils) - low risk

Photosensitization

Photosensitization, is a reaction to a substance applied to the skin that occurs only in the presence of UV light in the UVA range. An essential oil that exhibits this quality will cause burning or skin pigmentation changes, such as tanning, on exposure to sun or similar light (ultraviolet rays). Reactions can range from a mild color change through to deep weeping burns. Do not use or recommend the use of photosensitizing essential oils prior to going into a sun tanning booth or the sun. Recommend that the client say out of the sun or sun tanning booth for at least twelve hours after treatment if photosensitizing essential oils were applied to the skin.

Certain drugs, such as tetracycline, increase the photosensitivity of the skin, thus increasing the harmful effects of photosensitizing essential oils under the necessary conditions. Table 2.3 lists some common essential oils considered to be photosensitizers and Table 2.4 lists non-phototoxic citrus essential oils.

Table 1.3 Photosensitizers
Essential oil	Latin name
Angelica root	Angelica archangelica
Bergamot	Citrus bergamia
Cumin	Cuminum cyminum
Distilled or Expressed Grapefruit (low risk)	Citrus paradisi
Expressed Lemon	Citrus limon
Expressed Lime	Citrus x aurantifolia or Citrus x latifolia
Expressed Bitter Orange	Citrus aurantium
Rue	Ruta graveolens

Table 1.4 Non-phototoxic citrus oils
Essential Oil	Latin Name
Bergamot: Bergapteneless (FCF: Furanocoumarin Free)	Citrus bergamia
Distilled lemon	Citrus limon
Distilled lime	Citrus x aurantifolia or Citrus x latifolia
Mandarin/Tangerine	Citrus reticulata
Sweet orange	Citrus sinensis
Expressed tangerine	Citrus reticulata
Yuzu (expressed or distilled)	Citrus juno

The image below was taken by a student who used bergamot massage oil on her stomach before going into the sun.

Idiosyncratic irritation or sensitization

Idiosyncratic irritation or sensitization is an uncharacteristic or unusual reaction to a commonly used essential oil. This type of reaction is difficult to predict and rarely occurs but is a possibility.

Mucous membrane irritant

A mucous membrane irritant will produce a heating or drying effect on the mucous membranes of the mouth, eyes, nose, and reproductive organs. It is recommended that mucus membrane irritating essential oils not be used in a full body bath unless placed in a dispersant first (e.g., milk, vegetable oil). Bay, clove, cinnamon bark, lemongrass, and thyme ct. thymol essential oils should be avoided in baths completely. Table 1.5 lists some common essential oils considered to be mucous membrane irritants.

Table 1.5 Mucous membrane irritants
Essential Oil	Latin Name
Bay	Pimento racemosa
Caraway	Carum carvi
Cinnamon bark or leaf	Cinnamomum zeylanicum
Clove bud or leaf	Syzygium aromaticum
Lemongrass	Cymbopogon citratus
Peppermint	Mentha x piperita
Thyme ct. thymol	Thymus vulgaris

Other Safety Considerations

Safety during pregnancy

The use of essential oils during pregnancy is a controversial topic and one that is yet to be fully understood. The main concern during pregnancy appears to be the risk of essential oil constituents crossing over into the placenta. According to Tisserand, “crossing the placenta does not necessarily mean that there is a risk of toxicity to the fetus; this will depend on the toxicity and the plasma concentration of the compound.” Burfield states “it is probable that essential oil metabolites cross the placenta due to the intimate (but not direct) contact between maternal and embryonic or fetal blood.” He goes on to say, “to my thinking the responsible attitude is to discourage the use of essential oils completely during the first few months of pregnancy.”

Buckle comments that “the use of essential oils in pregnancy is a contentious subject, especially during the vital first 3-month period. It is extremely unlikely that a nightly bath containing a few drops of essential oils will cause any problems for the unborn child.” and later states, “There are no records of abnormal fetuses or aborted fetuses due to the ‘normal’ use of essential oils, either by inhalation or topical application.”

According to Wildwood, “A common myth in aromatherapy is that massage oils containing essential oils such as Clary sage, rose or even rosemary can cause a miscarriage and hence should be avoided throughout pregnancy.” Authors such as Ron Guba, Kurt Schnaubelt, and Chrissie Wildwood have all pointed out that there have been ‘no recorded cases of miscarriage or birth defect resulting from aromatherapy massage using therapeutic applications of any essential oil.’

Guba points out that toxicity during pregnancy is “almost exclusively due to pregnant women taking large, toxic doses of essential oils, notably pennyroyal (rich in the ketone, pulegone, which is metabolized to the highly toxic furan epoxide, menthofuron) and parsley seed (rich in the dimethyl ether, apiol) in an attempt to abort the fetus.” And Battaglia shares this insight: “the judicious use of essential oils together with appropriate forms of massage by a skilled therapist can help ease the discomforts of pregnancy and provide a sense of nurturing that will comfort the mother at times she is likely to be feeling rather fragile.”

Due to the lack of clear information regarding the toxicity of essential oils during pregnancy, it would be best to adhere to general safety guidelines. According to Tisserand, the following essential oils should not be used during pregnancy: wormwood, rue, oak moss, Lavandula stoechas, camphor, parsley seed, sage, and hyssop.

Essential oils that appear to be safe include cardamon, German and Roman chamomile, frankincense, geranium, ginger, neroli, patchouli, petitgrain, rosewood, rose, sandalwood, and other nontoxic essential oils. It would also be prudent to avoid the internal or undiluted application of essential oils throughout pregnancy or only under the guidance of a healthcare practitioner who is trained to practice in this way.

Table 1.6 Essential oils to Avoid throughout Pregnancy, Labor, and while Breastfeeding
Essential Oil	Latin Name
Star Anise	Illicium verum
Aniseed/Anise	Pimpinella anisum
Basil ct. estragole	Ocimum basilicum
Birch	Betula lenta
Blue Cypress	Callitris intratropica
Camphor	Cinnamomum camphora
Fennel, Sweet	Foeniculum vulgare
Ho leaf	Cinnamomum camphora
Hyssop ct. pinocamphone	Hyssopus officinalis
Mugwort or Wormwood	Artemisia vulgaris and A. absinthium
Myrtle	Myrtus communis
Parsley seed or leaf	Petroselinum sativum
Pennyroyal	Mentha pulegium
Sage	Salvia officinalis
Spanish lavender	Lavandula stoechas ssp. stoechas
Tansy	Tanacetum vulgare
Tarragon	Artemisia dracunculus
Thuja	Thuja occidentalis
Vitex	Vitex agnus-castus
Wintergreen	Gaultheria procumbens

General Safety Precautions

1. Keep all essential oils out of reach of children.

2. Do not use or recommend the use of photosensitizing essential oils prior to going into a sun tanning booth or the sun. Recommend that the client say out of the sun or sun tanning booth for at least twenty-four hours after treatment if photosensitizing essential oils were applied to the skin.

3. Avoid prolonged use of the same essential oils.

4. Avoid the use of essential oils you know nothing about on your clients. Research and get to know the oil prior to using it on others.

5. Avoid the use of undiluted essential oils on the skin, unless otherwise indicated.

6. If you suspect your client may be sensitive to specific essential oils or if your client has known allergies or sensitivities, it may be wise to perform a skin patch test.

7. Know the safety data on each essential oil and place into context of use and knowledge.

8. Use caution when treating a female client who suspects she is pregnant or has been trying to become pregnant.

9. Keep essential oils away from the eyes.

10. Essential oils are highly flammable substances and should be kept away from direct contact
with flames, such as candles, fire, matches, cigarettes, and gas cookers.

11. Make sure your treatment room has good ventilation.

12. Do not use essential oils internally unless trained to do so.

Safety Measures

1. 1. According to Schnaubelt, “if essential oils droplets accidentally get into the eye (or eyes) a cotton cloth or similar should be imbued with a fatty oil, such as olive or sesame, and carefully swiped over the closed lid.” With that said, I have found that flushing the eye with cold water is exceptionally helpful and it is what is recommended on a material safety data sheet.

2. If an essential oil causes dermal irritation, apply a small amount of vegetable oil or cream to the area affected.

3. According to Buckle, if a child appears to have drunk several spoonfuls of essential oil, contact the nearest poison control unit (often listed in the front of a telephone directory). Keep the bottle for identification and encourage the child to drink whole or 2% milk. Do not try to induce vomiting.

REMINDER:

Dosage safety

The dosage you choose to use for any given formulation depends on:

The constitution of the client
The condition being treated, and whether it is in an acute or chronic state
The method of application (internal, cutaneous, diffusion, etc.)
The safety information of each essential oil to be used, the experience and confidence of the practitioner, and established guidelines when applicable
The integrity of the skin, if administered via the cutaneous route
The age of the client or patient who will be using the formulation
The specific goal of treatment
The medication an individual is taking
The knowledge and confidence of the practitioner
The current commonly or generally accepted dosage

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Lesson 4: The Art of Language

Watch The Art of Language

The Language Of Aroma

Aromatherapy is suffering from an identity crisis and has been since its rapid growth within the retail industry throughout the late 1980s and into the present time. The average consumer is confused as to what aromatherapy is and if there is a difference between synthetic fragrances and genuine essential oils.

In aromatherapy, language becomes crucial in defining the profession as well as providing a clear identity for its practice and growth within the public and private sectors. Language provides insight into a given subject and often defines a practice. The language we use in relation to the practice of aromatherapy is crucial in educating the general public on genuine aromatherapy. Since the vast majority of the public thinks of perfume when one uses the word ‘fragrance,’ I would like to put forth that aromatherapists begin to use a more specific language that more adequately describes aromatherapy as a holistic healing therapy.

The following words relate to and express genuine aromatherapy.

Aroma: an odor arising from spices, plants, cooking, etc. especially an agreeable odor
Aromatic: having an aroma; fragrant or sweet-scented; odoriferous
Aromaticity: the quality or state of being aromatic
Fragrant: having a pleasant scent or aroma
Scent: a word derived from the french “Sentir” which means to feel, smell. Also based on the Latin word ‘Sentire’ meaning to feel or perceive

However, many individuals, even aromatherapy practitioners, use the word ‘fragrance’ when describing an essential oil or an aroma. Essential oils and aromas both have a reference back to plants and to natural scents or odors. Fragrance, on the other hand, has a reference back to perfume and cologne, as can be seen in the definition of ‘fragrance’. It would seem that the use of the word ‘fragrance’ furthers the misconceptions of what aromatherapy is, particularly amongst the general public. Therefore, it may be prudent for each person who practices genuine aromatherapy to refrain from using the term ‘fragrance’ since it inadequately describes genuine aromatherapy and the essential oils (nature’s aromas) that have been derived from medicinal plants.

Fragrance: perfume, cologne, toilet water, or the like, the quality of being fragrant

(All definitions, except for scent, have been taken from Webster’s Encyclopedic Unabridged Dictionary of the English Language. (1996). New Jersey; Random House.)

The language of aromas offers us a new vocabulary to work with. Although aromas contribute to our perception of the world and our own lives, we lack a true vocabulary for describing these individual aromas. This may be because aromas or odors do not get remembered as a word or even as a scent/odor, but rather, an aroma will be remembered by its meanings and memory-based associations. Describing an aroma is a highly individual experience, so we need a universal vocabulary to describe particular characteristics of an individual essential oil aroma. The following is a list of words gathered from a book, “Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin” by Stephan Arctander, which is considered to be a definitive guide to odor descriptions.

Language of Aromas
Balsamic	Intensely sweet	Rosy leafy
Balsamic-woody	Leafy-woody	Root like Smokey
Bitter – sweet	Light	Soft
Bitter	Meadow-like sweetness	Spicy
Camphoraceous	Medicinal, reminiscent of cough preparations	Spicy-herbaceous
Citrusy	Mild	Spicy-peppery
Clean	Minty	Sweet
Earthy	Musky animal-like	Sweet-fruity
Fresh	Penetrating	Sweet-spicy
Fresh-fruity	Peppery	Tea leaf-like
Floral	Pine-like	Tenacious
Floral-woody	Powerful	Turpentine like
Fruity – sweet	Pungent	Warm
Fruity-warm	Radiant	Woody-green
Grassy	Rancid	Woody-resinous
Green undertone	Reminiscent of……	Vanillin like
Hay-like	Resinous	Woody
Heavy	Rich and tenacious	Warm – woody
Herbaceous	Rosy sweet	Woody spice
Honey-like	Rosy

As you begin your studies of individual essential oils you may want to refer back to this list and use these words to help describe the aroma of a given essential oil.

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