Aromatic Scholars

Lesson 24: Bruises and Pruritus

Bruises

Bruising is the result of injury to the skin and damaged blood vessels leaking blood into the surrounding area. It causes soreness and discoloration that disappears as the skin heals.

Therapeutic Goals:
Reduce inflammation and tenderness.

Approaches to Bruises
Therapeutic Action	Essential Oils	Base Products
Anti-inflammatory – an essential oil that reduces or relieves inflammation	German chamomile, Cape Chamomile, *Helichrysum italicum, Tansy, Yarrow, Frankincense, Melissa officinalis, Monarda, Patchouli, Litsea cubeba, Jatamansi, Roman chamomile, Lavender, Lavandula* x intermedia (or Super)	▪ Herbal Oils: Calendula, Chickweed, Echinacea, Plantain, Yarrow ▪ Aloe vera gel ▪ Tamanu, Jojoba, Rosehip seed, Borage seed, Sea Buckthorn, Avocado Hydrosol compress: Yarrow, Witch hazel, German chamomile, Frankincense, Helichrysum, and/or Lavender ▪ Creams ▪ Salves

Aromatherapy Applications:

➞ Concentrated gel base or Aloe vera gel with arnica herbal oil, with mixture of above hydrosols and a 5-10% dilution of Helichrysum, German chamomile and Lavender.

➞ Undiluted application of Helichrysum and/or German chamomile essential oil as soon as injury has occurred.

Trauma Oil (for bruises, sprains and strains)

1 oz St. Johns Wort oil
1 oz. Arnica oil
18 drops Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum)
14 drops German chamomile (Matricaria recutita)

➤ Pruritus and Insect bites

Pruritus or unpleasant itching is a symptom of most dermal disorders. It can also be symptomatic of a metabolic disorder, such as diabetes, icterus, renal failure and gout. Pruritus can also be caused by allergens or insect bites.¹

Therapeutic Goals:

Reduce itching
Reduce inflammation
Aid in healing the skin, avoiding scar formation

Approaches to Pruritus
Therapeutic Action	Essential Oils	Base Products
Anti-inflammatory – an essential oil that reduces or relieves inflammation	German chamomile, Cape Chamomile, Helichrysum, Tansy*, Yarrow, Frankincense, Melissa officinalis, Monarda, Patchouli, Litsea cubeba, Jatamansi, Roman chamomile, Lavender, Lavandula* x intermedia (or Super)	▪ Herbal Oils: Calendula, Chickweed, Echinacea, Plantain, Yarrow ▪ Aloe vera gel ▪ Tamanu, Jojoba, Rosehip seed, Borage seed, Sea Buckthorn, Avocado Hydrosol compress: Yarrow, Witch hazel, German chamomile, Frankincense, Helichrysum, and/or Lavender ▪ Creams ▪ Salves
Antipruritic - an essential oil that relieves itching	Cape Chamomile, German chamomile, Roman chamomile, Eucalyptus citriodora (be sure to dilute!)	▪ Herbal oils: Calendula, Plantain, Chickweed ▪ Salve ▪ Aloe vera gel ▪ Hydrosol compress: Yarrow, Witch hazel, Peppermint, and/or Lavender ▪ Creams ▪ Salves

Learn how to make, All Heal Salve!

Lesson 23: Eczema and Rosacea

Eczema/Dermatitis

Eczema is an inflammatory skin disorder usually brought on by an outside agent (or internal allergy). It is a form of dermatitis. Dermatitis can be accompanied by eruptions, redness in the skin, dry or scaly skin, and/or swelling. Eczema is a more superficial form of dermatitis, affecting the epidermal layer. With eczema the skin is red, dry patchy skin, with a rash which can be either dry or weeping. Inflammation occurs and the eczema can be raw, painful and sometimes bleeding.

There are different types of eczema including: Contact eczema (caused by allergic reaction to irritating substances e.g. chemicals, rubber, metals, soaps, washing powders), Varicose eczema (present with people with varicose veins and the elderly), Atopic eczema (family history of allergic reactions e.g. hay fever, asthma) and Discoid eczema (scaly, itchy, round shaped patches found on the limbs). The most common type of eczema is atopic eczema.

The following can make atopic eczema symptoms worse:¹

Allergies to pollen, mold, dust mites, or animals
Cold and dry air in the winter
Colds or the flu
Contact with irritants and chemicals
Contact with rough materials, such as wool
Dry skin
Emotional stress
Drying out of the skin from taking too many baths or showers and swimming too often
Getting too hot or too cold, as well as sudden changes of temperature
Perfumes or dyes added to skin lotions or soaps

Therapeutic Goals:

Reduce itching
Reduce inflammation
Aid in healing the skin, prevention of scars
Address emotional issues/concerns

Approaches to Eczema
Therapeutic Action	Essential Oils	Base Products
Anti-inflammatory – an essential oil that reduces or relieves inflammation	German chamomile, Cape Chamomile, Helichrysum, Tansy*, Yarrow, Frankincense, Melissa officinalis, Monarda, Patchouli, Litsea cubeba, Jatamansi, Roman chamomile, Lavender, Lavandula* x intermedia (or Super)	▪ Herbal Oils: Calendula, Chickweed, Echinacea, Plantain, Yarrow ▪ Aloe vera gel ▪ Tamanu, Jojoba, Rosehip seed, Borage seed, Sea Buckthorn, Avocado Hydrosol compress: Yarrow, Witch hazel, German chamomile, Frankincense, Helichrysum, and/or Lavender ▪ Creams ▪ Salves
Antipruritic - an essential oil that relieves itching	Cape Chamomile, German chamomile, Roman chamomile, Eucalyptus citriodora (be sure to dilute!)	▪ Herbal oils: Calendula, Plantain, Chickweed ▪ Salve ▪ Aloe vera gel ▪ Hydrosol compress: Yarrow, Witch hazel, Peppermint, and/or Lavender ▪ Creams ▪ Salves
Vulnerary - an essential oil utilized in the healing of wounds	Carrot seed, Cape Chamomile, Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum), Yarrow, Elemi, Frankincense, Myrhh, Cistus, Geranium, Monarda, Patchouli, Laurel, Green myrtle, Palmarosa, Vetiver, Rose, German chamomile, Roman chamomile, Lavandula latifolia, Lavandula stoechas, Lavandula x intermedia (or Super), Neroli, Rosemary ct. verbenone	▪ Herbal oils: Calendula, Plantain, Chickweed ▪ Salve ▪ Aloe vera gel ▪ Hydrosol compress: Yarrow, Witch hazel,Helichrysum, German chamomile, Tea tree, Cistus and/or Lavender ▪ Creams ▪ Salves
Nervines - an essential oil that exerts a beneficial affect on the nervous system	Ylang ylang, Cape Chamomile, Blue tansy, Frankincense species, Palo santo, Sweet marjoram, Melissa officinalis, Spearmint, Litsea cubeba, Jasmine, Black spruce, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Rose, Bergamot, Mandarin/Tangerine, Sweet orange, Sandalwood (Santalum sp.), German chamomile, Roman chamomile, Lavender, Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia), Clary sage, Angelica root, Neroli, Petitgrain	▪ Aromatherapy inhaler ▪ Diffusion / Room sprays ▪ Massage therapy ▪ Bath therapy and into product you are making specific to condition.

Other Considerations:

If allergic reaction, identify allergen (Note: I have found that often the laundry detergent being used contributes to the manifestation of eczema.)
Diet and environment, adjust accordingly
Work on reducing level of stress which can be a trigger.
Detoxify, fasting, cleansing diet.
Avoid scratching – can lead to infection.
Supplements: Take supplemental omega-3 fatty acids (1-2 grams a day) and evening primrose oil (500 mg twice a day), a natural source of GLA (gamma-linolenic acid), a fatty acid that promotes healthy growth of skin, hair and nails.

Sample Aromatic Plan for Dry Eczema

2oz Aloe vera gelly
1 tbsp. German chamomile hydrosol
1 tbsp Witch hazel hydrosol
1 tbsp. Calendula herbal oil
1 tbsp. Rosehip seed oil
10 drops Palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii)
7 drops Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
5 drops German chamomile (Matricaria recutita)
4 drops Peppermint (Mentha x piperita)

Blend aloe vera gelly, calendula, rosehip seed oil and hydrosols together. Add in essential oils. Mix well. Apply 2-3x a day or as needed.

Have a look at how to tell the difference between Psoriasis vs Eczema

Rosacea

Rosacea is a chronic skin disorder in which the nose and cheeks are abnormally red and may be covered with pimples similar to those seen in acne. Many factors have been suspected of causing acne rosacea including: alcoholism, menopausal flushing, local infection, B-vitamin deficiencies, and gastrointestinal disorders.² The blood vessels in the skin become enlarged which causes the persistent redness. Redness due to distended capillaries, bumps, and pustules develop and are thought to be aggravated by consumption of alcohol and spicy foods as well as extremes in temperatures. Stress and strain are known to exacerbate rosacea.

Treatment Considerations:

Diet – plenty of fresh salads, drink mineral water and fruit juices.
Avoid alcohol, coffee, tea, chocolate, sugar, and dairy products.
Add Vitamin B complex: 100mg/day : Avoid niacin³

Therapeutic Goals:

Reduce inflammation
Soothe skin and reduce stress
Address emotional issues/concerns

Approaches to Rosacea
Therapeutic Action	Essential Oils	Base Products
Anti-inflammatory – an essential oil that reduces or relieves inflammation	German chamomile, Cape Chamomile, Helichrysum, Tansy*, Yarrow, Frankincense, Melissa officinalis, Monarda, Patchouli, Litsea cubeba, Jatamansi, Roman chamomile, Lavender, Lavandula* x intermedia (or Super)	▪ Herbal Oils: Calendula, Chickweed, Echinacea, Plantain, Yarrow ▪ Aloe vera gel ▪ Tamanu, Jojoba, Rosehip seed, Borage seed, Sea Buckthorn, Avocado Hydrosol compress: Yarrow, Witch hazel, German chamomile, Frankincense, Helichrysum, and/or Lavender ▪ Creams ▪ Salves
Antidepressant - a substance used to treat depression	Ylang ylang, Jasmine, Rose, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Lemon, Clary sage, Neroli, Patchouli	▪ Aromatherapy inhaler ▪ Diffusion / Room sprays ▪ Bath therapy ▪ Massage therapy ▪ Choice of essential oils in skincare products
Nervines - an essential oil that exerts a beneficial affect on the nervous system	Ylang ylang, Cape Chamomile, Blue tansy, Frankincense species, Palo santo, Sweet marjoram, Melissa officinalis, Spearmint, Litsea cubeba, Jasmine, Black spruce, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Rose, Bergamot, Mandarin/Tangerine, Sweet orange, Sandalwood (Santalum sp.), German chamomile, Roman chamomile, Lavender, Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia), Clary sage, Angelica root, Neroli, Petitgrain	▪ Aromatherapy inhaler ▪ Diffusion / Room sprays ▪ Massage therapy ▪ Bath therapy and into product you are making specific to condition.

Gentle Facial Cooling Agent for Rosacea (keep in refrigerator to keep cool)

1/2 to 3/4 cup aloe vera gel
2 tablespoons organic Rose Hip Seed Oil
1 tablespoon Lavender hydrosol
1 tablespoon German chamomile hydrosol
2 drops German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)
1 drop Vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides)
3 drops Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

CASE Study
Liza is a 30-year-old Social Worker who was first diagnosed with Rosacea in 1997. Her dermatologist has here using a topical antibiotic on a daily basis and taking oral antibiotics when she has flare ups. Liza is now interested in alternative methods of controlling her Rosacea that do not contain synthetics or involve taking oral antibiotics, especially since she is on birth control.

Liza has very fair and sensitive skin. She currently is using an Aveda cleanser to wash her face followed by an application of antibiotic cream and an Aveda moisturizer. She felt satisfied with the results of this routine so I decided to make her products that mirrored her current skin care regime. I prepared the following:

Facial Cleanser: to use each morning
Ingredients: Fragrant Earth’s Cleansing Base to which I added Lavender Water and Rose Water as mild astringents, Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) for its balancing action on the skin and ability to sooth inflamed tissue, Salvia sclarea (Clary sage) for its anti-inflammatory properties, Myrtus communis (Myrtle) for its antiseptic quality, Vetiveria zizanioides (Vetiver) to soothe the skin, and Anthemis nobilis (Roman Chamomile) for its soothing effects, especially on sensitive skin.

Antibiotic cream: I combined Cupressus sempervirens (Cypress) for its balancing effect on the skin, Pelargonium graveolens (Geranium) for its antiseptic qualities and ability to help balance the skin as well, Citrus sinensis (Orange) to help rejuvenate the skin, Lavender for its antibacterial quality, Helichrysum iltalicum for its wound healing properties, and Citrus paradisi (Grapefruit) to help tone the skin. I added this synergy to Fragrant Earth’s Cream base that I had blended with Calendula oil, Jojoba oil and Rose hydrosol. Her moisturizer was made with the same cream base to which I added FE’s Gel base, Lavender hydrosol, Rose hydrosol, Centella asiatica and Calendula oil.

RESULTS:
Liza was very happy with the results and feels that her skin has maintained well since she has been off of her prescription medication. She also likes the texture of the moisturizer and is very pleased with the face ash and antibacterial cream and would like to continue with the treatment to maintain her Rosacea.

On a side note, at the time of treatment, Liza was also diagnosed with Folliculitis, more prevalent under her left arm. Her dermatologist recommended a 30-day treatment of oral antibiotics. I voiced concern, not only because she was on birth control but also because we would not be able to get accurate results from the Rosacea treatment as antibiotics were also used to treat that condition. Liza agreed and I made her a gel to use on the rash. I combined the Gel base blended with Lavender hydrosol and Rose hydrosol to which I added Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Sandalwood (Santalum album), Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens), and Frankincense (Boswellia carteri), all of which have great antibacterial properties and are soothing to the skin. After a weeks use, she noted that the rash was almost gone and was excited that she didn’t have to take the oral antibiotics.

Lesson 22: Psoriasis

Psoriasis

Psoriasis on the arm/elbow. from www.wikipedia.com

The term psoriasis is derived from the Greek (psora: scurf, itch, rash). Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder affecting 1–3% of the population.¹ Psoriasis can develop at any age, but symptoms typically first appear between ages 15 and 25 years. Males and females are equally affected and 75% of patients develop the disease before the age of 40.

Psoriasis is characterized by well-demarcated raised red patches and thickening of the skin (plaques) caused by rapid cell division (hyperproliferation) of epidermal keratinocytes combined with inflammation of the epidermis and dermis.² Recent studies propose that psoriasis is an immune-mediated disorder although debate continues as to whether psoriasis is an autoimmune disorder or a T-helper 1 (Th1) immune dysfunction.³ Psoriasis appears as circumscribed, red, thickened plaques with an overlying silver-white scale. It most often occurs around the elbows, knees, scalp and back although it can occur anywhere on the body.

According to the Mayo Clinic, several types of psoriasis exist. These include:
Plaque psoriasis. The most common form, plaque psoriasis causes dry, raised, red skin lesions (plaques) covered with silvery scales. The plaques itch or may be painful and can occur anywhere on the body, including the genitals and the soft tissue inside the mouth. Individuals may have just a few plaques or many, and in severe cases, the skin around the joints may crack and bleed.

Nail psoriasis. Psoriasis can affect fingernails and toenails, causing pitting, abnormal nail growth and discoloration. Psoriatic nails may become loose and separate from the nail bed (onycholysis). Severe cases may cause the nail to crumble.
Scalp psoriasis. Psoriasis on the scalp appears as red, itchy areas with silvery-white scales. Individuals may notice flakes of dead skin in their hair or on their shoulders, especially after scratching their scalp.
Guttate psoriasis. This primarily affects people younger than 30 and is usually triggered by a bacterial infection such as strep throat. It’s marked by small, water-drop-shaped sores on your trunk, arms, legs and scalp. The sores are covered by a fine scale and aren’t as thick as typical plaques are. Individuals may have a single outbreak that goes away on its own, or they may have repeated episodes, especially if they have ongoing respiratory infections. Stressful life events and infections are recognized triggers for guttate psoriasis.
Inverse psoriasis. Mainly affecting the skin in the armpits, in the groin, under the breasts and around the genitals, inverse psoriasis causes smooth patches of red, inflamed skin. It’s more common in overweight people and is worsened by friction and sweating.
Pustular psoriasis. This uncommon form of psoriasis can occur in widespread patches (generalized pustular psoriasis) or in smaller areas on the hands, feet or fingertips. It generally develops quickly, with pus-filled blisters appearing just hours after your skin becomes red and tender. The blisters dry within a day or two, but may reappear every few days or weeks. Generalized pustular psoriasis can also cause fever, chills, severe itching and fatigue.
Erythrodermic psoriasis. The least common type of psoriasis, erythrodermic psoriasis can cover the entire body with a red, peeling rash that can itch or burn intensely. It may be triggered by severe sunburn, by corticosteroids and other medications, or by another type of psoriasis that’s poorly controlled.
Psoriatic arthritis. In addition to inflamed, scaly skin, psoriatic arthritis causes pitted, discolored nails and the swollen, painful joints that are typical of arthritis. It can also lead to inflammatory eye conditions, such as conjunctivitis. Symptoms range from mild to severe, and psoriatic arthritis can affect any joint. Although the disease usually isn’t as crippling as other forms of arthritis, it can cause stiffness and progressive joint damage that in the most serious cases may lead to permanent deformity.⁵

Contributing factors to psoriasis include:^6,7,8

Genetics⁹
Alcoholism
Type 2 Diabetes
Obesity
Metabolic syndrome
Stress
Smoking¹⁰
Medications (e.g., beta-blockers and lithium)
Physical injury to the skin (the Koebner response) and infection: Infections or injury to the skin can promote lesion formation in susceptible individuals.¹¹ Koebner response refers to the appearance of isomorphic pathological lesions following skin trauma patients with pre-existing cutaneous diseases and is most frequent in patients of psoriasis.

Psoriasis is associated with several co-morbidities (concomitant but unrelated pathological or disease processes), including decreased quality of life, depression, increased cardiovascular risk, type 2 diabetes mellitus, metabolic syndrome, cancer, Crohn’s disease, and psoriatic arthritis.¹²

Psoriasis and Emotional Well-being

Research studies have shown that psoriasis sufferers experience difficulties in the workplace and in socialization with family members and friends, exclusion from public facilities, difficulties obtaining a job, and even contemplation of suicide. Individuals with psoriasis often feel embarrassed, unattractive and depressed. The disease process was often described as a large problem in everyday life, influencing the choice of clothing used to cover psoriasis. Many individuals claimed psoriasis interfered with their ability to sleep, and interfered with their sexual activities.¹³

Psoriasis is a particularly difficult condition to treat and not surprisingly the more severe the symptoms, the more difficult it is to provide effective treatment. However, aromatherapists should not be deterred from attempting to address the distressing symptoms of psoriasis. Aromatherapy is used to provide relief to symptoms, reduce stress and provide a supportive role to other natural therapies such as naturopathy or homeopathy.¹⁴

A holistic approach, including education and psychologic support, is needed for optimal care of psoriatic patients. The main aim of the treatment is to reduce the burden of the disease over time by controlling symptoms, helping the patient to cope with the chronic nature of the disease, limiting psychologic and relational consequences, and preventing systemic complications and comorbidity.¹⁵

Therapeutic Approaches:

Address nutritional needs. Refer to Nutritionist or Naturopath if necessary.
Avoid alcohol and nicotine.
Vitamins A, B, E, C and Zinc 30-40 mg daily.
Exercise, fresh air, and sunlight.
Rest, relaxation and sun often improves it.
Fasting and cleansing diet can be helpful. It is recommended that a good whole foods diet with plenty of fresh food be followed.
Good vitamin and mineral supplements should be taken, particularly Vitamin A, and Zinc.
Omega-3 fatty acids are beneficial to add to diet.
Salt baths followed by sun exposure may be beneficial.¹⁶
The application of vitamin B12 cream containing avocado oil has considerable potential as a well tolerated, long term topical therapy of psoriasis.¹⁷

Therapeutic Goals:

Relieve itching Note: Recent studies show pruritus being more prevalent in psoriasis, especially plaque-type psoriasis, than previously believed and severely affecting patients’ quality of life.¹⁸ Generalized pruritus was a feature of psoriasis in 84% of the patients. In 77% of these it appeared on a daily basis. It involved all areas of the body, had prolonged duration and appeared mainly in the evening and at night. The pruritus significantly affected quality of life. Important daily factors that were found to exacerbate the itch were ambient heat (81%), skin dryness (80%), sweating (65%) and stress (55%). Important factors that were found to ameliorate itch were sleep (57%) and cold showers (55%).¹⁹
Relieve/reduce stress
Reduce inflammation
Aid in healing the skin, avoiding scar formation
Moisturize skin: Keep skin moisturized, as dry skin tends to increase itchiness of psoriasis
Address emotional issues/concerns

Approaches to Psoriasis

Therapeutic Action	Essential Oils	Base Products
Antidepressant - a substance used to treat depression	Bergamot, Clary sage, Grapefruit, Jasmine, Mandarin, Melissa, Neroli, Sweet orange, Patchouli, Petitgrain, Rose	▪ Aromatherapy inhaler ▪ Diffusion / Room sprays ▪ Bath therapy ▪ Massage therapy ▪ Choice of essential oils in skincare products
Anti-inflammatory – a substance which soothes and reduces inflammation	Cape chamomile, German chamomile, Roman Chamomile, Eucalyptus citriodora, Frankincense, Helichrysum, Jatamansi, Lavender, Litsea cubeba, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood, Yarrow	▪ Herbal Oils: Calendula, Chickweed, Echinacea, Plantain, Yarrow ▪ Aloe vera gel ▪ Tamanu, Jojoba, Rosehip seed, Borage seed, Sea Buckthorn, Avocado
Antipruritic - relieves itching	Cape chamomile, Geranium, Helichrysum, Sandalwood	▪ Herbal oils: Calendula, Plantain, Chickweed ▪ Salve ▪ Aloe vera gel ▪ Hydrosol compress: Yarrow, Witch hazel and Lavender ▪ Unscented Shampoo for scalp psoriasis with hydrosols (see above) and essential oils
Supportive to Emotions	Angelica root, Basil ct linalol, Bergamot, Cape chamomile, German or Roman Chamomile, Clary sage, Frankincense, Jasmine, Jatamansi, Lavender, Lavandin, Litsea cubeba, Mandarin, Melissa, Patchouli, Palo santo, Petitgrain, Rose, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Yarrow, Ylang ylang	▪ Aromatherapy inhaler ▪ Diffusion / Room sprays ▪ Massage therapy ▪ Bath therapy

Sample Aromatic Plan for Psoriasis

4oz of concentrated aloe vera gel base
Hydrosols of: German chamomile, Lavender and Neroli
Essential Oils of: Lavender, German chamomile and Helichrysum (1.5-2.5% dilution)
1 tbsp. Calendula herbal oil

Blend gel, calendula and hydrosols together. Add enough hydrosol for desired consistency. Add in essential oils. Mix well. Apply 2-3x a day or as needed.

Oil based blend for Psoriasis (can be used for scalp psoriasis as well)

1 ounce Tamanu oil
2 ounces Rosehip seed oil
2 ounces Jojoba oil
14 drops Carrot seed (Daucus carota)
25 drops Frankincense (either Boswellia carteri or B. frereana)
10 drops German chamomile (Matricaria recutita)
10 drops Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

Lesson 21: Acne

Acne (Acne vulgaris)

Acne is a common and chronic skin condition that affects 47-90% of individuals during the teenage years¹ but can occur later in life as well. Acne is considered to be a disease of the pilosebaceous unit (see image on left) – hair follicles in the skin that are associated with the oil gland.² The distribution of acne corresponds to the highest density of pilosebaceous units (face, neck, upper chest, shoulders, and back).

Acne can be graded from mild (5 cysts, >100 comedones, >50 inflammatory lesions, 3/4s of face or area is involved, scaring is often present).³

Acne vulgaris is characterized by:

an enhanced sebum production (seborrhea) typically caused by androgens (hormones responsible for male characteristics) acting upon the sebaceous glands
an increased cornification of the follicles (hyperkeratosis) causing occlusion of the pilosebaceous duct (The obstruction of sebum flow can result in the development of pimples, pustules, cysts, blackheads.)
the presence of non-inflammatory lesions (comedones) and/or inflammatory lesions (papules, pustules, nodules and cysts)
the presence of a bacterial infection (Propionibacterium acnes) of the follicle.⁴

Signs and Symptoms of Acne

The characteristic clinical manifestations of acne vulgaris are the appearance of either non-inflammatory or inflammatory presentations as follows.

Non-inflammatory acne:

Comedones (whiteheads and blackheads) are created when the openings of hair follicles become clogged and blocked with oil secretions, dead skin cells and sometimes bacteria. When comedones (koe-muh-DOE-neez) are open at the skin surface, they’re called blackheads because of the dark appearance of the plugs in the hair follicles. When comedones are closed, they’re called whiteheads — slightly raised, skin-colored bumps.

Inflammatory acne:

Papules are small raised bumps that signal inflammation or infection in the hair follicles. Papules may be red and tender.
Pustules (pimples) are red, tender bumps with white pus at their tips.
Nodules are large, solid, painful lumps beneath the surface of the skin. They’re formed by the buildup of secretions deep within hair follicles.
Cysts are painful, pus-filled lumps beneath the surface of the skin. These boil-like infections can cause scars.⁵

Acne and Emotional Well-being

Acne vulgaris can have a significant psychosocial impact on the sufferer ranging from significant psychological distress to impairment of psychosocial functions. Feelings of embarrassment lead many individuals to withdraw from social situations, and reports of depression and body image problems are common.⁶ Moderate to severe acne conditions are often accompanied with low self esteem, depression, and anxiety. Scars left by acne can also have emotional expressions, including depression and anxiety. It is very important to address the psychological aspects of acne during treatment. This is an area aromatherapy excels in.

Contributing factors to acne include:

allergies
diet
certain medications
heredity
cosmetics
illness
intestinal / digestive issues
changing hormone levels in adolescent girls and adult women 2 to 7 days before their menstrual period starts
pressure from cell phones, sports helmets or equipment, backpacks, tight collars, or tight sports uniforms
environmental irritants, such as pollution and high humidity
squeezing or picking at blemishes
stress: stress does not cause acne but can make it worse

Philosophical View

Botanical (and aromatic) therapy for acne begins with the belief that the health of the skin is a reflection of the over health of the organism. The skin, a major organ of elimination, is believed to bear an excess burden of elimination when other eliminatory and detoxification organs (e.g bowels, lymph system, liver) are not functioning optimally or are overtaxed. Thus topical treatment are almost universally accompanied by systemic treatments that address the health of these other systems.⁷ It is also important to remember when treating acne, results can take time. A treatment regime should be followed for at least 4-8 weeks to determine efficacy of treatment design.

Therapeutic Approaches:

Address nutritional needs. Refer to Nutritionist or Naturopath if necessary.
Avoid alcohol, nicotine, coffee, tea, chocolate, sugar, red meat, and dairy products.
Herbal tinctures: Burdock root, Calendula, German chamomile, Skullcap, Dandelion root, Echinacea root, Oregon Grape root and/or Yellow dock.⁸
Vitamins A, B, E, C and Zinc 30-40 mg daily
Exercise, fresh air, and sunlight
Increase water intake
Support lymphatic flow through the use of skin brushing, lymphatic massage, and salt scrubs

Therapeutic Goals:

Reduce inflammation
Unblock pores
Aid in healing the skin, avoiding scar formation
Increase cell turnover in skin (e.g. gentle exfoliation)
Balance sebum production
Address bacterial infection
Create a therapeutic skin care regime
Address emotional issues/concerns

Aromatherapeutic Approaches to Acne

Therapeutic Action	Essential Oils	Application Method
Antidepressant - a substance used to treat depression	Ylang ylang, Jasmine, Rose, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Lemon, Clary sage, Neroli	▪ Aromatherapy inhaler ▪ Diffusion / Room sprays ▪ Choice of essential oils in skincare products ▪ Baths, Massage
Anti-inflammatory – a substance which soothes and reduces inflammation	German chamomile, Cape Chamomile, Helichrysum italicum, Tansy, Yarrow, Frankincense, Melissa officinalis, Monarda, Patchouli, Litsea cubeba, Jatamansi, Roman chamomile, Lavender, Lavandula x intermedia (or Super)	▪ Herbal Oils: Calendula, Chickweed, Plantain, Yarrow ▪ Aloe vera gel ▪ Hydrosols ▪ Tamanu oil, Jojoba
Cleansing oils and to unblock pores	Roman chamomile, Cypress, Frankincense, Lavender, Lemon, Tea tee, Thyme ct. linalol	▪ Herbal Oil: Calendula ▪ Olive Oil ▪ Gentle exfoliants ▪ Castile soap or other unscented natural soap base ▪ Toners with hydrosols including apple cider vinegar and/or tinctures ▪ Clay mask ▪ Facial steam
Astringent – a substance which causes cells to shrink; contracts, tightens, and binds tissues	Lemon, Cypress, Valerian, Yarrow, Saro, Cistus, Geranium, Patchouli, Litsea cubeba, Cedarwood, Lemongrass, Vetiver, Rose, Grapefruit, Neroli	▪ Toners with hydrosols and herbal tinctures ▪ Castile soap ▪ Clay mask
Antibacterial – a substance which destroys bacteria	Geranium, Sweet marjoram, Monarda, Tea tree, Palmarosa, Lemon, Jatamansi, Eucalyptus globulus, Thyme ct. linalol, Laurel, Cinnamon leaf, Rosemary ct. verbenone	▪ Herbal Oils: Calendula, Echinacea ▪ Castile soap ▪ Gel
Nervines	Angelica root, Basil ct linalol, Bergamot, Cape chamomile, German or Roman Chamomile, Clary sage, Frankincense, Jasmine, Jatamansi, Lavender, Lavandin, Litsea cubeba, Mandarin, Melissa, Patchouli, Palo santo, Petitgrain, Rose, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Yarrow, Ylang ylang	▪ Aromatherapy Inhaler ▪ Massage oils ▪ Bath therapy ▪ Hydrosols ▪ Essential oils chosen for skin care products

Sample Aromatic Plan for Acne

Cleanser:

4oz concentrated castile soap or other cleanser
A mixture of Witch hazel, Lavender, and German chamomile hydrosols, blend into cleanser to desired consistency
Essential oils of: Cypress, Tea tree and Lavender (1-2% dilution)

Toner: To make 4 ounces of a toner

1 ounce Witch hazel hydrosol
2 ounces Rose Hydrosol
.5 ounce Echinacea tincture
.5 ounce Calendula tincture

Can add essential oils into this but it is not necessary. 1% dilution of lavender is nice or 1% of Roman chamomile and Lavender.

Facial mask:

1 tbsp green clay
A mixture of witch hazel and Roman chamomile hydrosols, blend into clay to desired consistency
Essential oils: Lemon (Citrus limon) and Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) (Total per tbsp: 2-4 drops)

Gentle facial exfoliant:

1 cup white clay
1/2 cup finely ground oats
1/16 cup finely ground rose petals
1/8 cup finely ground blue cornmeal
1/16 cup finely ground lavender

Combine all ingredients and store in sanitized glass container. To use: In a small bowl combine 2-3 tsps. (or more as needed) with witch hazel or rose hydrosol and a small amount of aloe vera gel. *Can also add in some gently warmed honey. Stir until paste has formed and then gently massage onto face. Rinse off with warm water.

Moisturizer:

2oz unscented natural cream
Essential oils of: German chamomile, Rose, Patchouli

Psychological Blends

Aromatherapy Inhaler

4-5 drops Rose (Rosa damascena)
7 drops Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
12 drops Tangerine (Citrus reticulata)
3 drops Patchouli (Pogostemom cablin)

Diffusor blend (make .5 ounce for home use)

10 ml Tangerine (Citrus reticulata)
3ml Neroli (Citrus aurantium var. amara)
2ml Sandalwood (Santalum sp.)

Sprout: Seasonal Skincare (Autumn and Winter)

Enjoy our webinar on Skincare through the Autumn and Winter.

Print: PDF Seasonal Skincare with Jade Shutes

Lesson 2: Complete Supply List and Resources

Aromatic Scholars Complete Supply List

Supplies Aromatic Scholars

Recommended Suppliers

Please note: I have categorized suppliers by ingredient/supply. With the exception of the Essential Oil Companies (which offer a range or products I would recommend), the companies listed under specific categories are for those specific products (although you can certainly purchase other supplies from them too!).

Essential Oil Companies

⇥ Original Swiss Aromatics: OSA’s  essential oils are products of the plant organism. The way we offer essential oils is inspired by accepting oils as precious products of biological processes, cherished for their own beauty and brilliance rather than as industrial raw materials for the food or fragrance industry, standardized and diluted to be made economically acceptable. We will offer essential oils which, to the best of our abilities to ascertain, are truly genuine and authentic. This means nothing has been added nor taken out. It also means that no other natural substances have been added, that an oil is truly and exclusively from the plant that it claims to be.

⇥ Nature’s Gift: At Nature’s Gift, we carefully select pure essential oils from the four corners of the world. Our goal is to provide the finest quality pure and natural essential oils available today. We do not shop by price, nor do we buy from “mass market” suppliers, but rather from small distillers who either grow their crop themselves, or personally know and observe the farmers whose oils they sell. Most of our oils are either organically grown, or ethically wildcrafted with concern for the worldwide environment and ecosystem.

Enjoy a 10% discount from Natures Gift
Use Code: jade
Good for all sizes including bulks.
Excludes kits (birthing, beginner’s, care package, various skin solutions….), books, and gift certificates.

⇥ Florihana:  At the foundation of our commitment to create the Florihana distillery were two main aims: respect for nature and development of highly therapeutic certified organic products for aromatherapists.

⇥ Lunaroma Aromatic Apothecary: Lunaroma offers pure organic essential oils of the highest quality. Our natural bath and body care products are handcrafted in small batches using only the finest quality aromatics, organic botanicals and base ingredients.

⇥ Essential Aura Aromatics:  Essential Aura strives to be a leader in the distillation and supply of Organic Essential Oils for therapeutic aromatherapy. We promote the environmental sustainability of essential oil production. Developing direct relationships with both growers and other essential oil distillers, Essential Aura is in a position to provide exceptional quality essential oils. We provide the highest quality organic and wildcrafted essential oils we have found and since 1998 we have built our reputation on this effort.

⇥ Floracopeia:  Floracopeia offers a large selection of well-known essential oils, as well as unusual, uncommon, and relatively unknown oils from unique botanical species.

⇥ Fragrant Earth:  Fragrant Earth International is a long established company and our list has developed over the years, always aiming to meet the needs of practitioners and therapists world-wide.

Dried Herbs (Bulk)

⇥ Pacific Botanicals: We have been growing high quality organic medicinal herbs in the Applegate Valley since 1979. We know the types of herbs that do well here and have selected the various varieties to fit our microclimate and to achieve maximum potency. You can count on us to know the herbs we grow and sell; from the seed that we use, to the starts in the green houses, to our pristine growing environment, to the organic nutrients we add to the soil, to the perfect time for harvest and conditions for shipment. In addition to our own farm we have built good working relationships with many other organic growers in the U.S. and around the world. We have been sourcing herbs from them for many years. We only do business with growers that meet our high standards of quality. We are certified organic in growing and processing by USDA and Oregon Tilth.

⇥ Mountain Rose Herbs:  Since 1987 Mountain Rose Herbs has been known for its uncompromising commitment to organic agriculture and steadfast focus on the pure aesthetics and freshness of botanical products.Throughout all of these magnificent and developmental years we have always put an emphasis on conducting business in an ethical, responsible, clear, and ecological way; hoping to pave a medium for other blossoming green companies.

⇥ Oregon’s Wild Harvest:  Committed to naturally healing the body and earth using the most holistic and sustainable growing and processing practices to safely retain the freshest, purest and most effective properties of whole herbs.

Hydrosols

Most aromatherapy companies or essential oil suppliers listed above also sell hydrosols. We will continue to add to this list of artisan distillers to support local plant cultivation, sustainable wild-crafting and small batch production.

⇥ Morning Myst Botanicals:  Offering over 50 Varieties of Certified Organic Hydrosols. All of our hydrosols are produced here on our farm, by us personally. You are buying DIRECT FROM THE DISTILLER. WHOLESALE ONLY.

⇥ Phibee Aromatics: PhiBee Aromatics is a family run business (named after our girls), born out of our love and passion for the native plant world.

⇥ Pompeii Street Aromatherapy: Pompeii Street Aromatherapy is a small company in central Pennsylvania that meticulously sources Certified Organic, unsprayed, and wildcrafted essential oils, carriers, infused oils, and hydrosols. Offering over 60 Certified Organic essential oils, hydrosols, and carriers. Sourced Certified Organic products whenever possible. You will see that many of our oils are unsprayed or wildcrafted. Because it is important to source the oils from their native lands, some oils can not be sourced as Certified Organic.

Vegetable Oils/Herbal Oils/Aloe vera gel

⇥ Jedwards International : BULK Supplier of Certified Organic and Conventional Specialty Oils, Essential Oils, Butters, Waxes, and Botanicals

⇥ The Jojoba Company: Purchase your jojoba oil here.

⇥ Essential Wholesale: We offer the highest quality natural Soap Making Supplies, Aromatherapy and Cosmetic Making Ingredients. With over a thousand different items to choose from, including Cosmetic Bases, Essential Oils, Carrier Oils, Exotic Butters & Waxes, Cosmetic & Soap Making Ingredients, Fruit & Herbal Extracts, Organics and so much more.

⇥ Banyan Botanicals : A resource for Ayurveda and premium quality Ayurvedic products made from certified organic herbs sustainably sourced and fairly traded. Excellent Sesame oil and Ayurvedic herbs.

⇥ Vermont Soap Company:  Has some really awesome bulk certified organic (and no latex) shea butter.

⇥ New Directions : Supplies a range of organic bases/oils/butters.

⇥ Healthy Traditions:  Gold Label Virgin Coconut Oil is our highest quality coconut oil. This premium Virgin Coconut Oil is handcrafted by family producers in the Philippines using traditional methods passed down from previous generations. We were the first ones to export Virgin Coconut Oil from the Philippines to the United States back in 2001.

FOR VERY LARGE PURCHASES OF VEGETABLE OILS, HERBS, EXTRACTS, HYDROSOLS (PER ANNUM)

⇥ Praan Naturals:  Natural Sourcing specializes in the procurement and supply of an extensive range of natural, conventional and organic ingredients for cosmeceutical, fragrance & perfumery, spa, massage and aromatherapy applications.

Cold Pressed Seed Oils

⇥ Botanic Innovations: Botanic Innovations produces a broad range of highly specialized oils from non-GMO fruit, vegetable, grain and herb seeds. These life-nourishing all-natural ingredients have broad applications in a variety of products across several industries. Our advisors have formulated proprietary seed oil that add powerful health benefits to dietary supplement products. Some of our products are also used in animal care products, as cosmetics, as functional food additives, and as all-natural industrial lubricants.

Beeswax

⇥ New Directions:  Supplies a range of organic bases/oils/butters.Organic Raw Honey and Beeswax

⇥ Jedwards: Offers bulk beeswax.

Pippettes

⇥ SKS Science: Bulk disposable pipettes.

⇥ Rachel Supply: Small quantites and bulk pipettes.

Bottle Companies

⇥ SKS Packaging:  SKS is a supplier, consultant and designer of plastic bottles, glass bottles, plastic jars, glass jars, metal containers and closures for your packaging needs. Our online selections of containers and closures is extensive and priced right so that you are getting the best selection of products at the best prices.

⇥ Specialty Bottle:  Specialty Bottle is a national supplier of glass, plastic and metal containers. We service over 30,000 customers throughout the United States and Canada. Many of our customers are in the gourmet food, natural products and candle industries.

⇥ Berlin Packaging:  Quality plastic and glass bottles, perfume bottles, jars, vials, brushed aluminum, bags and bottle accessories

Print/Business Cards/Labels

⇥ Online Labels.com: Largest selection of label shapes and designs. Also has label design software. Order polyester labels, they are waterproof!

⇥ Vista print: Business cards and other print material

Lesson 14: Poaceae syn. Gramineae

The Pocaeae syn. Gramineae Family

The Poaceae family, also known as the grass family, is comprised of some 9000 species grouped together into about 650 genera. The family provides all the cereal crops (including rice), most of the world’s sugar and grazing for domestic and wild animals, as well as bamboos, canes, and reeds. The grasses also make a major contribution to much of the world’s landscape. The family is cosmopolitan, ranging from the polar circle to the equator and from mountain summits to the sea.¹

Genus	Species	Common name
Cymbopogon	**Cymbopogon citratus, C. nardus, C. martinii var. motia**	Lemongrass, Citronella, Palmarosa
Vetiveria	*Vetiveria zizanioides*	Vetiver

Poaceae Family Essential Oils

Lesson PDF: Poaceae Family

Watch:

Watch: Aromatic Plant Exploration with Palmarosa and Jade Shutes

Lesson 7: Burseraceae

The Burseraceae Family

The Burseraceae, also known as the incense tree family, are tropical trees and shrubs comprised of 17 genera and approximately 500 species. The family is found throughout the tropics, but particularly in Malaysia, South America, and Africa. All parts of the plants, especially the bark, contain resin.¹

Genus	Species	Common name
Boswellia	Boswellia carterii, B. freana, B. neglecta, B. papyrifera, B. serrata, B. rivae	Frankincense
Bursera	*Bursera graveolens*	Palo santo
Canarium	*Canarium luzonicum*	Elemi
Commiphora	*Commiphora myrhanee*	Myrrh

Burseraceae Family Essential Oils

Lesson PDF: Burseraceae Family

Watch:

For Audio Only Recording of Webinar: Listen Here.

Lesson 4: Apiaceae

The Apiaceae Family

The Apiaceae syn. Umbelliferae, commonly known as the celery, carrot or parsley family, are a family of mostly aromatic plants with hollow stems. The family, which is named after the type genus Apium, is large, with more than 3,700 species spread across 434 genera. The name is derived from the type genus Apium, which was originally used by Pliny the Elder circa 50 AD for a celery-like plant.¹

The family is found in most parts of the world, although it is most common in temperate upland areas, and relatively rare in tropical latitudes. Most of the Apiaceae are herbaceous, annuals, biennials, or perennials.²

The Apiaceae is one of the best known families of flowering plants because of its characteristic inflorescences and fruits and the distinctive chemistry reflected in the odor, flavor, and even toxicity of many of its members. The Apiaceae seems to be the first flowering family plant to be recognized as such by botanists, at about the end of the 16th Century.

In the following chart, essential oils in bold will be covered in this course.

Genus	Species	Common name
Ammi	*Ammi visnaga*	Ammi
Anethum	Anethum graveolens	Dill
Angelica	Angelica archangelica	Angelica
Apium	Apium graveolens	Celery
Bupleurum	Bupleurum fruticosum	Bupleurum
Carum	Carum carvi	Caraway
Coriandrum	*Coriandrum sativum*	Coriander
Cuminum	Cuminum cyminum	Cumin
Crithmum	Crithmum maritimum	Rock samphire
Daucus	*Daucus carota*	Carrot seed
Foeniculum	**Foeniculum vulgare var. dulce, F. vulgare**	Fennel
Petroselinum	Petroselinum crispum	Parsley

**Please note: Angelica root and seed were covered under Morphological Specificity in Module 2.

Apiaceae Family Essential Oils

Lesson PDF: Apiaceae Family

For Audio Only Recording of Webinar: Listen Here.

Lesson 2: Cupressaceae NEW!

The Cupressaceae Family

The Cupressaceae or cypress family is a conifer family with worldwide distribution. The family includes 27–30 genera (17 monotypic – a monotypic species is one that does not include subspecies or smaller, infraspecific taxa), which include the junipers and redwoods, with about 142 species in total.¹ That makes it the largest conifer family in terms of genera, and the third-largest in terms of species.²

In the following chart, essentials oils in bold will be covered in the course.

Cupressaceae Family
Genus	Species
Cupressus (cypress)	Cupressus sempervirens
Juniperus	Juniperus virginiana (cedar), Juniperus communis (juniper), Juniperus mexicana (cedar)
Thuja (arborvitae)	Thuja occidentalis

Cupressaceae Family Essential Oils

Lesson PDF: Cupressaceae Family

For Audio Only Recording of Webinar: Listen Here.